To properly install roof gutters, you need to take care of this at the building design stage. This will make it possible to choose the optimal version of the system not only taking into account its cost, but also depending on the engineering features of individual structures. Mainly the type of fastening of gutters, there are options for fixing these elements of gutters to the sheathing, and there are options for fastening to the eaves board. The work consists of several stages, each of which has a significant impact on the final quality of fastening the gutters and their functionality.

It is impossible to install gutters correctly without prior planning. What should I do?


Despite the features of roofing systems and differences in roofing systems, there are general installation rules for all types of structures.

Complete set of spillways

The configuration and structural characteristics of the systems have a significant impact on the methods of installing gutters on the roof of houses.

What are the main elements of gutters?

Item nameDescription and installation features

They are used for fastening gutters; they can be fixed to sheathing boards (hooks) or to the eaves strip (brackets). The first (hooks) are made only from a metal strip and are bent to give a slope to the drainage system manually during installation. The main feature is the need for installation before the start of roofing work, otherwise the first row of coverings will have to be dismantled. Currently considered an obsolete design and rarely used. More often, brackets are used that are fixed to the cornice board or rafter overhangs. Can be made of plastic or metal. The most modern models have the ability to precisely adjust the position of the gutter after attaching the elements to the board.


They take water from the slopes and direct it to the funnels. They are mounted along the entire perimeter of the building with a slope of up to 4–5 mm per linear meter. They can be round or square in shape; there are options for making gutters yourself. Installation is done after completion of the roofing work.

To protect elements from falling snow, snow guards can be additionally used; this is an active method. A passive method of protecting gutters from mechanical damage is to maintain the difference in height between the continuation of the roof projection and the upper edge of the drainage system element.

For proper installation, it is necessary to make preliminary calculations of the roof; the parameters of the gutters are selected depending on the area of ​​the slopes. Simultaneously with this data, you need to calculate the number of funnels. They must have time to pass all the rainwater during peak loads; one funnel per 10 m of gutter is recommended.

Most often they have an angle of 90°, but sometimes they are also found with an angle of 135°. To seal the joints with the gutter, rubber or adhesive seals are used. During installation, you should pay attention that the distance from the corners of rotation to the brackets does not exceed 10–15 cm. The strength of the system in these places is lower; a more reliable suspension is required.

They are installed on gutters and direct the water they collect into vertical pipes. Correct fastening is impossible without preliminary calculation; installation of one funnel for every 10 m of gutters is considered universal. But a specific decision should be made after a careful analysis of the slope area and maximum precipitation in a given climatic zone. Funnels can be pass-through (mounted anywhere in the gutter) and left or right. The latter are installed only at the ends of the system; the design has special plugs, which simplifies the installation process and increases the reliability of the entire system.

They allow you to change the direction of water flow and connect several elements of the system to one vertical pipe. They are inserted into a socket-type connection; during installation, you need to pay attention to the direction of the elements in relation to the movement of water.

During installation, it is necessary to monitor the distance between the points of fixation of the elements; depending on the material of manufacture and the diameter of the pipe, it ranges from 1.2–1.8 m. The type of fixation to the facade wall changes depending on the materials of its manufacture. Clamps can be plastic or metal.

They have different lengths, but most manufacturers adhere to the standard of 3 m. The diameter is selected taking into account the water flow; the quantity, installation location and total length are calculated before the installation of the drainage system begins.

Prices for gutters

Gutters

Basic mistakes in installing roof gutters

Correct installation of the system guarantees not only high efficiency, but also durability of the drainage systems. Metal products can become deformed from excessive loads caused by gross violations of installation technology, while plastic products crack and require complete replacement.

What mistakes do inexperienced roofers often make?

  1. Incorrect slope of gutters. To ensure normal water drainage, it is recommended to make the slope within 3–5 mm per linear meter. If the slope is greater, then at the end of the slope the gutter is too far from the edge of the roofing and water does not enter it. If the slope is insufficient or the mounting line of the brackets is not straight, then stagnant areas will form. Dust and dirt quickly accumulate in them, then mosses grow, completely blocking the lumen of the gutter. As a result, the drainage system stops working and the gutter needs to be cleaned. Doing this is difficult and time-consuming, and correcting a mistake is not always possible. Sometimes it is necessary to undermine the installed roof, which always has negative consequences in the future.

  2. Insufficient number of brackets. All designs are designed for the maximum possible bending load; taking this data into account, manufacturers recommend the optimal distance between fixation points. For plastic structures, the brackets should be no more than 50 cm apart; for metal ones, this parameter increases to 60 cm. You should never skimp on the number of brackets; the cost of several elements is incomparably lower than the cost of eliminating negative consequences.

  3. Incorrect coupling connection. Due to technology violations, leaks appear in these places. Rubber elements or adhesive joints are used as seals. During installation, every effort should be made to ensure complete tightness and high reliability of all connections. Additional brackets must be installed on both sides of the coupling element.

  4. Violation of the recommended spatial position of the gutter. If you continue the roof plane, it should pass above the rear edge of the gutter at a distance of approximately 20-25 mm. Why exactly these parameters? Only they simultaneously ensure safe rapid removal of snow from the roof and complete intake of all rainwater. Reducing the gap will cause snow or ice to damage the integrity of the gutter, and increasing it will cause water to enter the ground rather than into the gutter. Another dimension must be strictly observed - the vertical projection of the edge of the roofing should be located as close as possible to the center of the gutter. The permissible deviation cannot exceed 1/3 of its width. Failure to comply with this parameter also causes rainwater to flow past the drainage system.

Each type of system has its own minor design differences, but they only affect the installation technology, and the principles are common to all.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Video - How to calculate a drainage system?

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Work should begin only after a sketch of the drainage system has been drawn, fixation locations and the number of brackets and clamps have been determined. The sketch shows areas for installing funnels and vertical drain pipes with all bends and couplings. The nomenclature and quantity of materials are known, all elements have been purchased.

Step 1. Reinstall the drainage system funnel; it should be located at the lowest point of the eaves board.

Before fastening, use a bubble level or any level strip to check the correct position of the element. Place a level on the roofing, raise/lower the funnel until its opposite side is positioned at a distance of ≈ 2 cm from the bottom plane of the tool. Mark the places where the funnel is fixed.

Remember that the roof edge protrusion should not exceed 1/3 of the gutter diameter. If errors were made during the installation of the eaves (front) board or roof, they should be corrected. The optimal solution is to adjust the position of the board, tear it off and shorten or lengthen the fillets of the rafter system.

Step 2. Fix the brackets on both sides of the funnel, the distance between the elements is 2–3 cm.

Step 3. Install brackets to secure the gutters. In our example, they are plastic and are fixed to the cornice board. There is an option for attaching brackets made of metal strips to the sheathing; they must be installed before covering the roof.

There are two ways to properly install brackets.

First.


Second.

The control thread can be pulled with emphasis on the upper surface of the brackets. A specific decision should be made on site, taking into account the location of the elements and the features of the roof of the building.

The slope of the brackets is 2 cm by 10 m

Practical advice. Well-known manufacturers offer universal hooks for attaching gutters. They are fixed to the sheathing and have two degrees of adjustment: vertical position and tilt angle. This allows you to insert all position parameters after screwing the element to the rafter system and completing the roof covering. Metal hooks are also installed up to the roof coverings, but the hooks are not adjustable; the correct installation process should be done immediately using one of the described methods.

Step 4. After fixing all the brackets, you can begin assembling and installing the gutter. It is recommended to cut elements with an ordinary hacksaw or a grinder with an abrasive disc. Clean the ends with a sharp knife; they are easily cut along the line.

Practical advice. To properly install the funnel and connect it to the gutters, use a gas lighter to slightly heat the edges of the cut and, while the plastic is warm, bend it in the right place. This simple operation will ensure that the water completely drains from the gutter into the funnel.

On the inside of the funnel there are lines with numbers printed on them. These marks indicate the optimal position of the ends of the gutters, which corresponds to the air temperature at the time of installation of the elements. Be sure to follow this condition. The fact is that plastics have large coefficients of thermal expansion; if the recommendations are not followed, there is a risk of swelling or the ends falling out of the funnel.

Important. It is strictly prohibited to glue or use additional sealants to connect the gutters in this type of funnel. Individual elements should be able to move slightly in one direction or another depending on fluctuations in ambient temperature.

To increase the length of the gutters, special connectors are used; they are glued and snapped into place. You need special glue; it is sold complete with the drainage system. The turning corners of the gutters are also glued to the glue. A minimum of three strips of adhesive, each approximately 5mm thick, is required. The couplings are put on the chute and turned until they click. The distance of the brackets to the angle of rotation is no more than 5 cm. In the places where the turns are attached, clamps are additionally installed, they increase the reliability and stability of the assembled units, and eliminate the occurrence of excessive bending loads.

Step 6. Install plugs on the gutters; they are also glued with a special compound.

There are options when manufacturers use rubber gaskets instead of glue. This method of sealing is less reliable; rubber parts lose their plasticity over time and leaks may appear in some places. The use of silicone sealants as a supplement is ineffective. Under the influence of moisture and freezing temperatures, silicone will peel off from the plastic in the second year of operation of the drainage system.

If the installation scheme of the drainage system assumes the presence of two ends of the gutters on one slope, then their arrangement is carried out in this order.


At this point, the installation of the horizontal elements of the drainage system is completed; the installation of vertical pipes can begin.

Installation of vertical drainage systems

The complexity of the work is that the vertical bends have several angles for connecting to the funnel. The number of different turns depends on the architectural features of the building.

Step 1. Measure the distance from the funnel to the wall of the house, select two corners and measure the length of the coupling sections. The missing distance should be increased with a piece of straight pipe. It is cut with a hacksaw or grinder; the edges must be cleaned of burrs.

Step 2. Glue the top elbow to the funnel, the rest should only be inserted. The upper elbow is made non-separable for one reason - it is impossible to fasten the clamp in this place; the elbow is supported only by the funnel.

Step 3. Mark the mounting locations for the pipe clamps. There are two ways to do this. The first is to mark a vertical line along the entire height of the house and drill holes for clamps on it at the required distance. The second is to use a level to mark the installation points of the elements one by one for each clamp, and maintain the vertical position with the level. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, make your decision on the spot based on your qualifications.

Marking the position of pipe clamps

Step 4. Drill a hole for the plastic dowel and secure the base of the clamp. Work carefully; if you use excessive force, the plastic may crack and you will have to replace the element with a new one.

If the wall of the house has a layer of insulation made of foam plastic or mineral wool, then the length of the dowel should be increased so that there is a hole in the solid wall with a depth of at least 3 cm.

Step 5. Insert the pipe into the corner and secure its position with a clamp. Manufacturers recommend installing at least two clamps on one whole section of pipe; you will get two on each side near each coupling.

There are letter designations on the plastic clamps. The top clamp is screwed so that the arrow points to the letter “A” on the stand.

The lower clamp is fixed in position “B”, the arrow should point to this letter. The fact is that the clamp holders have different thicknesses of the thrust surfaces, the arrow points to a reinforced one, it is in this direction that the main forces will act.

If, due to the size of the building, it is necessary to connect two pipes, then a gap must be left in the coupling for their free movement. The gap width is at least two centimeters.

The installation work ends with gluing the elbow to supply water to the blind area, to the receiver of the reclamation system or to a container for collecting rainwater. Then it is used for irrigation or other economic purposes.

Video - Correct installation of the drainage system

To prevent water from the roof from washing away the foundation, a drainage system is installed. They are made from different materials, more or less expensive, but in general, the costs are substantial. You can save a little if you assemble the drain yourself. The features and installation procedure will be discussed further.

Types of drainage systems

The most famous and common roof drains are made of galvanized metal. They may not be as attractive as more modern options, but they are reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What’s also good is that if you have the skill of a tinsmith or just have “straight” hands, you can make a drain out of galvanized steel with your own hands.

If we talk about other metal systems, two of them belong to the elite category - copper and an alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal drainage systems with polymer coating. They are quite affordable in price, you can’t fault them in appearance, and in durability – it depends on the manufacturer. If the technology is followed, they will happen for many years.

There is another type of roof drainage - made from polymers. They can withstand ultraviolet radiation, frost and heat, are highly durable, and look good. The disadvantage can be considered the rather high price, especially from European manufacturers. However, there are good options in the low-cost systems category.

Composition of drainage systems

Gutters are located under the roof overhang. They are mounted on special brackets that hold the system. Since the storm drain is located along the entire perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be connected tightly; for this there are gutter connectors with rubber seals. These elements are often considered unnecessary. Then the gutters are laid overlapping with an overlap of at least 30 cm and connected with self-tapping screws.

To drain water, holes are made in the gutter into which funnels are inserted. Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, the pipe must be made curved. For this, there are maple or universal rings (from some manufacturers). The drainpipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps, which have the same color as the entire system.

A system of the required configuration is assembled from all these elements. If you decide to buy ready-made elements and then assemble the gutter yourself, the best solution is to have a house plan with dimensions on hand. Using it, you can quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate the required number of elements.

Installation features

Most of the questions arise about attaching brackets for the drain. It must be said right away that they are installed taking into account the fact that the gutters should have a slight slope towards the funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it larger - up to 10 mm.

If the length of the roof gable is less than 10 meters, the slope is made in one direction. If it is more, either they put an additional funnel (and a drainpipe) in the middle and form a drain to it, or the gutter in the middle of the pediment has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle in both directions.

When installing a drain with your own hands, you usually do this: nail the bracket at the highest point. Then the lowest one is nailed, taking into account the planned slope. A twine is stretched between them, along which all the others are attached. One recommendation - before forming a slope, check the horizontality of the line you are focusing on. Usually this is either a front (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always perfectly level. So check the verticality, and preferably with a hydraulic level or, in extreme cases, a bubble level will do, but of a long length - at least a meter. You won’t be able to find your way around shorter ones at longer lengths.

Number of brackets and methods of attaching them

The number of brackets for installing a drain is calculated simply: the distance between two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. Divide the total length of the wall by this distance. To the resulting figure we add one (extreme bracket) and get the required quantity for one wall. All others are calculated similarly. If the building has a non-linear shape, you will have to count one by one - the corner elements must be supported on both sides.

Now directly about the methods of attaching the brackets. There are three possibilities:

Once again, please note that the brackets are nailed taking into account the created slope. If they are made of metal, they are bent using improvised means or a special tool - a hook bender (sold in the same place where gutters are made). In this case, the gutter must be positioned so that the roofing material ends before reaching half of the gutter, and it is better that it is in the range of 1/2 - 1/3. This way, most of the gutter “catches” water, which is important during heavy rainfalls.

At what level should I mount it?

Now about how high to raise the gutter to the roofing material. If there is not much snow in your region, or the roof has a large angle of inclination, so that snow does not accumulate on it, you don’t have to worry too much and attach it wherever you like. Otherwise, the gutter must be lowered so that when the snow melts, the drain does not “go away.”

In the figure, the approximate trajectory of the melting snow is indicated by a dotted line. The far edge of the gutter should not intersect with it. By the way, it should be a couple of centimeters lower than the one located closer to the house.

If you cannot lower the gutter lower, you will need to install snow guards on the roof. They prevent massive snowfall. The snow gradually melts and comes off in small fragments, without harming the storm drain.

This is what a massive snow melt looks like. As you can see, the storm drain bracket does not interfere (this is a fitting)

Gutter installation

Gutters are placed in fixed brackets. There are two systems with different sequences of actions. The first has a specially formed groove at the edge of the gutter. The ends of the brackets are threaded into this groove, then the gutter is turned into place, secured with special tongues on the brackets. If you look at the photo, it will become clearer.

In the second system, installation begins from the side of the gable board. The far edge of the gutter is inserted into the locks located there, then pressed alternately into the locks on the front of the brackets.

The two fragments of the gutter must be connected using a special connecting element with rubber seals. But their cost is quite high, so two gutters are simply laid overlapping with an overlap of 30 cm (make sure that the joint is located along the water flow). For greater tightness, you can lay a strip of rubber between the two gutters and connect them with ordinary self-tapping screws (or with washers and rubber gaskets). After installing the gutter, its edges are closed with plugs.

Funnel fastening

Having assembled and installed the gutter on the brackets, the installation of the drain continues by installing funnels. They are placed in the lowest areas. If the funnels are located close to the corners, at a distance of about 20 cm from the edge of the gutter, a hole is cut out with a hand hacksaw. It is better not to use a jigsaw or grinder - there is a high probability that the cutout will be too large.

A funnel is attached to this cutout, clinging to the outer edge of the gutter. Then it is wound up to the second edge and fixed there with special clamps.

Installation of drainpipes

Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, a rotating element is attached directly to the funnel, which allows the pipes to be brought closer to the wall and secured there. For fastening there are special clamps painted in the same color as the entire system. They come in different designs, but mostly they have a latch so that they can be dismantled without removing the screws that secure the pipe to the wall.

The clamps are installed at a distance of at least 1.8-2 m from each other. At the bottom, the drain can be led directly into the drainage system (if it is located nearby). If it is made simply around the foundation, the drainage pipe ends with a rotating element, which diverts water from the foundation to a distance of at least 20 cm.

In principle, you installed the drain yourself, but there is one more detail that will make operation much easier. A metal (preferably stainless) mesh is placed on the gutter. It prevents leaves and other large debris from entering the system.

Installing a grid will allow for less frequent maintenance of the system. This is especially true on tall buildings.

Homemade drain

Ready-made drainage systems are good, but not cheap. What to do if drainage needs to be done at the dacha and you need to spend a minimum for this? There are several very budget options. The first is to make a drain from plastic sewer pipes. Take pipes of large diameter (110 mm or more), good quality with a thick wall, cut them in half and use them as gutters. The same diameter or slightly smaller can be used as drain pipes. It’s more convenient to buy ready-made brackets, but in principle, you can make them yourself. For more information on how to make a drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, watch the video.

An even more budget-friendly option is drainpipes made from plastic bottles. They cannot make a normal gutter, but the pipe funnels work normally.

The drainage system is an integral part of any building. It protects its facade from moisture that accumulates and then flows down the roof. Today, the elements of such systems are made of various metals, including copper, and various types of plastic.

A do-it-yourself drain can be made from any material, since the installation instructions are the same for everyone. This is due to the fact that they have the same structure, regardless of the material used to make their individual elements.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Like any other process, this one requires some consistency. Therefore, the best option would be to consider the entire process of assembling plastic or metal gutters in stages. It all starts, as usual, with preparation. To do this, a system diagram, or plan, must be prepared. Then calculations are carried out on it, and material is purchased according to the calculations.

When all this is done and all the material is already available, then you can begin the actual installation.

Installation of fasteners

Do-it-yourself gutter installation begins with installing brackets. It must be said right away that today the industry produces a wide variety of different types of brackets. The choice will depend mainly on where you plan to mount this bracket:

  • Rafter system;
  • Wall.

Advice! The brackets need to be fastened so that their center line is slightly inclined. 5 cm for every 10 meters will be enough. This will allow you to later install a gutter sloping towards the drain pipe.

If the length of the gutter is more than 20 meters, then it is recommended to make two slopes of 10 meters, respectively, and there will also be two drain pipes.

The brackets should be mounted at a distance of 50-60 cm between each other. Very often this situation arises: the brackets are planned to be attached to the rafters, and they are located at a distance of 120 cm. At the same time, the holders themselves need to be attached every 50-60 cm. In this case, they do it very simply - use two different types of holders. In this case, some must be mounted on the rafters, and others on the walls.

Installation of funnels

The installation of a drainage system involves the installation of water inlet funnels. These are elements that serve to receive water from the gutter and direct it into the drain pipe.
It must be said right away that funnels are attached only at the places where drain risers are attached, which should be clear from the above.

Among other things, funnels often serve as connectors for plastic gutters. In this case, you need to start working with them.

To do this, special holes are cut in the funnels, in the places where the gutter will be attached to them, and the edges are cleaned after work. Glue is used to attach plastic funnels.

After all these procedures have been completed, the funnel is equipped with a special mesh that will not let various debris into the drain pipe.

Working with gutters

Gutters, like the pipes themselves, can be either rectangular or round. Depending on this, the necessary fasteners for them are selected. Since such clamps were discussed a little higher, now it remains to be said that the gutters are simply inserted into them.

Those edges that remain unused are closed with special plugs.

Advice! plugs should only be purchased with rubber seals. If there are none, then you should make such a seal yourself.

Gutter connection process

If the gutters are connected not through a funnel, then this can only be done using a special additional element called a connector. It is put on the two ends of different gutters and fastens them, forming a key connection.

The elbow can be rectangular or round depending on the shape of the funnel. In general, before installing a drainage system, you should decide on its material, its shape and other parameters.

So, the knee fits directly onto the funnel from below. The elbow is needed to direct the drain pipe towards the wall. This will allow you to secure it with special clamps. The knees can have different angles.

Installation of risers

So, after the elbows have been attached, you can begin installing the risers. This is quite easy to do. First, the riser is attached to the knee from below. Then it is secured with clamps. After this, another one is attached to the installed part of the pipe, if necessary, that is, in the case when the height of the first part is not enough.

How to work with clamps

Separately, the issue of clamps should be considered. It must be said right away that different elements are used for brick and wooden facades. However, as a rule, the clamp consists of two arcs, which are placed on the riser from two different sides and then fixed. Fixation is carried out using two bolts, which are fixed at the ends of the arches.

The final element is the drain

The drain is shaped very much like a knee. Actually, its functions are the same - it serves to rotate the riser, only this time away from the wall.

The pipe and drain are installed so that there is about 40 cm from the edge of the latter to the blind area.

Correct installation of the drainage system ensures 90% of its durability and normal operation. It must be installed by a specialist who knows all the intricacies and rules of installation. If you install it yourself, you must follow the installation instructions.

However, developers continue to install gutters without following manufacturers' recommendations and make problems for themselves out of the blue. Due to careless or incorrect installation, skimping on fastenings, the functions of the drain are disrupted, which leads to roof leaks and wear of the facade.

What are the consequences of installation errors?

When installing each system, you need to take into account the material of the pipes, the method of assembling the system and the type of fasteners. And although a modern plastic drain at first glance is assembled like a construction set, “behind the scenes” there remain the individual features of the system, known only to professionals.

Common mistakes when installing a drainage system.

Incorrect selection of pipe diameter and number of funnels is the reason that the system cannot cope with the water flow. This is more a design issue, but often unprofessional calculation and installation of a drainage system go hand in hand.

Gutters are installed horizontally, which causes water to accumulate in the gutter itself and in the corners of the system. While it is reasonable to collect rainwater in tanks for irrigation, the “accumulation” of water in the gutters prevents the drain from performing its main function - draining water.

Stagnant water turns into ice when it gets cold and melts when it thaws, causing ice plugs to appear that impede drainage. One or two years of such operation - and the entire system will require repairs, and the plastic drain may even burst. Copper drainage is less susceptible to danger, but its cost is higher.

The roof overhangs the gutter too much or, conversely, is far from its center. It is also incorrect to install the gutter with a slope towards the wall or away from the wall of the house; in this case, overflowing over the edges of the gutter is possible during high-intensity rain.

The pipe is located very close to the wall of the house. Ill-thought-out fastening of the drainage system will lead to wet walls during rain.

The basic rules for installing a drainage system are common to all types. But there are some differences in the installation of metal and plastic gutters.

Correct installation of the drainage system.

Unforeseen difficulties with the installation of gutters can be avoided by installing them before laying the roofing.

Gutters are usually secured to the rafters, sheathing or roof fascia. But if the roof covering has already been laid, the rafters are closed, and there is no frontal board in the structure, a problem arises with fastening the drainage system. Yes, any gutter can be installed on a finished roof, but then the process of attaching the gutter becomes more complicated.

Let's consider the procedure and rules for installing a drainage system with differences in the installation of drains made of plastic and metal.

1. Compliance with temperature conditions during installation.

Plastic drainage is installed at temperatures above +5 ° C, metal depending on the material of the protective coating. Minimum temperature for plastisol +10 ° C, ceramic granules -10 ° C, purala -15 ° WITH.

2. Attaching the gutter to the roof with a slope.


Rice. 1 Double slope on a line over 24 m./Simple slope on a line up to 24 m.

Gutters are installed with a slope towards the storm drain. The slope value is indicated in the installation instructions for the drainage system. As a rule, for a PVC gutter it is 3-5 mm per 1 meter, for a metal gutter 2-5 mm per 1 meter. The distance between storm drains should not exceed 24 m.

3. Install the gutter holders at the same distance.

First, the outer holders are fixed at the highest and lowest points at a distance of no more than 200 mm from the edge, and the rest are placed between them. Depending on the roof structure, manufacturers provide different types of hooks (holders). Long hooks are attached to the bottom of the sheathing with self-tapping screws, and compact holders are attached to the front board.


Rice. 2

The distance between the brackets for a plastic drain is a maximum of 50 cm, for a metal drain - no more than 60 cm. The gutter holders on the sides of the storm drain are located at a distance from each other of no more than 50 cm for a plastic drain and 60 cm for a metal one. The end cap of the gutter and the angle of rotation should be located at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the bracket.

4. The edge of the roof should be 1⁄3-1⁄2 of the gutters.

In this case, the gutter is located below the conditional line that continues the roof (by attaching a rail, as shown in the figure, we form this very conditional line) so that the snow does not slide onto it in its entirety.

Rice. 3 Attaching the gutter to the front board / Attaching the gutter to the sheathing

Plastic gutters are cut using a fine-toothed saw (hacksaw or tin saw), and tin snips are used for the holes. The cut edges of the plastic drain are cleaned with files or sandpaper.


Rice. 4 Pipe cutting

You cannot use an angle grinder (“grinder”) to cut metal pipes, because it heats the steel and destroys the coating.

6. Fastening the drainage system to the wall of the building with a sufficient number of pipe holders.

The holders are installed at a distance of 2 m from each other for buildings up to 10 m high and 1.5 m for buildings above 10 m. The pipe should be located at a distance of 3-8 cm from the wall of the building. The bend of the pipe is formed using elbows.

Plastic drains connect:

  • for glue (cold welding);
  • on latches and clamps;
  • on rubber seals.

Metal:

  • on seals;
  • clamps.

The elements of a plastic pipe must be connected taking into account the gap to compensate for linear expansion. The drain is mounted at a distance of 25 cm from the ground or 15 cm from the blind area.

When installing a drain, be sure to follow the installation rules of the drainage system and the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Is it possible to save money on installation?

You can install the drain yourself, strictly following the installation instructions for the drainage system. Pay attention to the strength and reliability of fasteners and components.

Consequences of errors when installing a drainage system:

  • if you install fewer brackets, the gutter may bend and crack under the load;
  • if the drain is placed too high, water will fall on the walls of the house, destroying the facade;
  • Improperly assembled pipes can leak and burst.

A standard gutter holder can support about 75 kg, but it is not the weight that is important, but the supporting area. If you install fewer holders, the pressure is concentrated at one point and is not distributed over a meter of length. The gutter will “lead” or it will break.

Again, competent calculation of the system during design will reduce costs. Then you will purchase the optimal number of elements without compromising the reliability and proper operation of the system.

Checking whether the drain is installed correctly is quite simple. The slope of the gutter can be measured with a regular building level or a hydraulic level, if possible - with a level and theodolite. The tightness of the connections is checked as follows: plug the drain holes, pour water into the gutter and see if a leak appears at the connections. You can also then open the drain and see how quickly and completely the water drains. The throughput and the absence of overflows are checked by directing a watering hose with medium water pressure onto the slope. The correct location of the gutter at the edge of the roof is checked by applying a strip to the slope. It should not rest against the gutter, but pass over it.

It is better to entrust the installation of a drain to a specialist. But if you still decide to install it yourself, you must follow the installation instructions for the selected eastern system. This way you can avoid major mistakes and ensure proper operation of the drain throughout its entire service life.

If you want to use this material on your web resource, you can copy the Title and Abstract of the article, followed by a link to the original. Source link required. Full copying of the article, as well as its rewriting and partial copying forbidden .

One of the most important functions of the roof is to protect the attic and attic from precipitation. But, flowing along the roof slopes, the water inevitably transfers to the walls and foundation. The result of this is the rapid destruction of the load-bearing elements of the building structure. This action can be avoided by installing roof drainage systems.

System classification

There are two criteria for classifying a drainage system. They directly determine the installation technology. Depending on the manufacturing method, drainage systems can be industrial or homemade. In the latter case, we are talking about an object of handicraft production. What benefit can there be from this system? If a person has the appropriate abilities, a drain can be beautiful and unusual.

Setting up a homemade system does not involve significant costs. Among other things, the user can choose the scheme that suits him. Gutters are usually made of galvanized steel, so constant maintenance is required, and this is the disadvantage of the system. Among the disadvantages is the difficulty of joining individual elements.

Factory modifications meet all standards and necessary parameters. If necessary, you can join different elements supplied by the same manufacturer. Classification according to the material used assumes the presence of plastic and metal models.

Plastic system

There are adhesive and non-adhesive systems. In the first case, installation is carried out using glue . Plastic gutters have the following advantages:

The components are varied, so the drainage system can take on almost any configuration. This makes it indispensable for installation on broken roofs.

Disadvantages of gutters made of polyvinyl chloride:

  • The material tends to collapse under the influence of mechanical stress. That is why this kind of system is not installed on high-rise buildings. The plastic system can only be installed on low-rise buildings.
  • Unsuitable for repair. Destroyed components cannot be restored.
  • Increased linear expansion coefficient.
  • The need for periodic replacement of seals, which entails the assembly and disassembly of elements.

The installation is fixed with rubber seals.

The drainage system, equipped with a metal profile, has several varieties. There are galvanized and copper modifications. There is a galvanized version with a polymer coating. The key difference between them is the duration of operation and cost.

The positive qualities of metal gutters are strength and reliability, the ability to withstand significant snow loads and other environmental influences. They do not support combustion. Their operating temperature ranges from -60 to +130 degrees. Among the advantages is dimensional stability.

Metal gutters have the following disadvantages:

  • difficulty in installation;
  • small selection of colors;
  • rust formation if the protective layer is damaged;
  • significant weight of the system as a whole;
  • a small number of components, due to which installation can only be carried out on roofs with an angle of 90 degrees.

It is difficult to answer which system is more efficient, plastic or metal. It all depends on operating conditions and other factors. Whatever it was, the choice of system should be based on quality, not price.

System installation

The technology for installing drains includes selecting a system, purchasing materials and carrying out appropriate calculations. Depending on bandwidth systems, there are several drainage options. Let's say they can be designated in the form of numbers 100/75, 125/90, 150/110, which indicates the ratio of the diameter of the pipe and the gutter.

Each manufacturer has its own indicators. The configuration is also different. This is why you should not connect systems produced by different companies. A variety of systems is necessary so that each person can choose the modification that suits his needs.

Selection of drainage

To correctly select a water drainage system, it is necessary to become familiar with the maximum precipitation level in a particular region. After this, you need to calculate the area of ​​the slope. This should be done not for all elements, but for the largest one. It is this size that will determine the choice of gutter.

If the building has a flat roof or a roof with a slope of less than 10 degrees, the effective surface area will be E1 = A * C. The result will be in square meters. After choosing a system, you need to determine its type and calculate the amount of materials. For this purpose, prepare drawings or diagrams of planes with dimensions. Thanks to them it will be possible to carry out calculations, and then installation of the drainage system.

Calculation of the drainage system

The important feature here is the gutter. It can be rectangular or semicircular. The purpose is to collect precipitation from the roof. Its length is from 3 to 4 m. It is fixed with brackets, which are fixed in increments of 60 to 90 cm. The drainage gutter must have a slope of at least 1 cm for every 3 m. The number in linear meters is equal to the perimeter of the base. In fact, this is the length of all surfaces on which the gutters of the drainage system will be installed. It is sold individually in 3 and 4 linear meters.

All obtained dimensions must be rounded to the whole length of the gutter. The smaller the connection, the simpler and installation is cheaper. The outer and inner angles of the gutter are 90 and 135 degrees, respectively. The corner gutter is designed to change the direction of water flow. It is mounted by fastening on the internal and external corners of the roof. A total of 4 external corners and 2 internal corners are required. They should all have 90 degree angles. If there are acute and obtuse angles, it is necessary to select a system in which these angles are absent.

A variety of angles can be made from a plastic gutter if you cut out part of the product and connect the halves at the right angle. The parts must be connected using glue, that is, by cold welding.

Gutter components

There can be from 5 to 17 connecting elements. It all depends on the installation features of a particular system. In most systems, the corners are fastened directly. But there are some examples where a connector is used for this. If the installation is carried out with glue, compensation and conventional connectors must be used. The first type is installed when the roof length is more than 8 linear meters. It can be installed without the use of glue. A connector is required to accommodate the linear expansion of the crack during cooling and heating.

Fastening hooks

These components are short and long. The latter are necessary for hanging the gutter on the rafters and are secured before installing the roofing material. The first ones are short and are used to fix the gutter on the front board. Accordingly, it is possible to install the components on a finished roof covered with roofing material. The fastening hook is installed at intervals of 60 cm. An obligatory step is the installation of funnels and plugs at the joints and near the corners.

Vertical drainage requires a drainpipe. They can have a round or rectangular cross-section. Designed for vertical liquid drainage. The bracket is needed to attach the pipe to the wall. According to the method of fixation, a distinction is made between the stone method, when the element is fixed on a concrete, stone or brick base, as well as installation using hardware. The third method involves fixing it to wooden walls using self-tapping screws.

Depending on quantity funnels determine the number of pipes. If, say, there are 4 of them, then 4 places will also be required to install the pipes. In linear meters, their length corresponds to the total length of all walls along which installation is carried out. Pipes are sold in lengths of 3 and 4 linear meters. Rounding up is possible since joints on the pipe are undesirable. That is, if your house has a height of 3.5 m, then you need to buy a pipe 4 m long. Half a meter from here will be spent on waste and other needs. Pipe fasteners are installed every meter. Their installation near the knee is mandatory.

Plastic drainage system

To install a polyvinyl chloride system, it is necessary to install drainage funnels on the roof. There are stormwater, water intake and roofing systems. This is followed by the installation of brackets. The gutter fasteners, which are located as close as possible to the funnel, are installed at a distance of 2 cm from it. They serve as a holder. The angle of inclination relative to the funnel is 2 degrees or 4 mm per 1 m. It is very convenient to check the inclination with a nylon thread. If the wall has a length of 10 to 20 m, it makes sense to install the gutter in the following ways:

  1. Simple method. It is also called direct. The funnel is installed at the end of the slope.
  2. Double slope. It is drawn from the middle of one plane to the middle of another.

In the first case, the middle gutter is located at the highest point. Due to this, water moves to the funnels that are located at the corners of the building. In the second case, at the highest point there are two extreme gutters. For this reason, the water moves towards the funnel located in the middle between them. Sometimes the length of the gutter exceeds 22 m. Three funnels and a more powerful system are installed here.

At the next stage, they are mounted gutter connectors of regular and compensation type, if necessary. The connectors are installed between the brackets at the same distance from them.

  • The gutter is placed on brackets that are adjacent to the funnel, taking into account the linear expansion of the plastic.
  • It is necessary to drill holes for the funnel in the correct place. To do this, use a special drill attachment - a crown.

Some manufacturers mark the funnel so that installation can be simplified. That is, the temperature scale is indicated on the side. By comparing it with the temperature outside, the gutter can be installed at the desired level.

The funnel is an element that does not require glue during installation. If this is provided, a sealing rubber is placed at the point where it adjoins the gutter.

The next step is the installation of the gutter connection. When laying it, the connector must be smeared with glue or the joint must be sealed with an elastic band. No adhesive is required to install the expansion connector. To ensure that water flows in the right direction, it is better to install a so-called teardrop at the end of the drain pipe. The installation of corners and plugs for the gutter is carried out using a similar scheme.

Installation of the corner and plugs is carried out using glue and sealing rubber bands. Clamps and downpipes are secured in the next step. Holes for fastening the clamp are drilled at the design condition. The installation of the pipe is preceded by installing the elbow or pipe into the funnel. The use of a rubber seal or glue is mandatory. But they are not required for downspouts.

The pipes are secured using a clamp installed in holes drilled in advance. After this, a plastic molding is installed. It must be installed so that water does not destroy the foundation of the house. You can make it conduct water into the drainage system channel or into a corresponding well.