Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a new building step by step. Instructions for arranging wiring from a panel in an apartment with your own hands

The convenience and comfort of modern life largely depend on electricity. In every house or apartment, several household electrical appliances must be used at once to provide lighting, hot water supply, heating, food preservation, air conditioning and ventilation. For reliable operation of electrical appliances, proper electrical wiring is necessary. Each owner has the right to decide how household appliances will be placed in his home, and where sockets and switches should be located to connect them. But the question is, is it worth using the services of professional electricians when installing electrical wiring, or can you do the electrical wiring in the apartment yourself?

Where to start installing electrical wiring in an apartment

Work on installing electrical wiring in an apartment or other residential premises should always begin the same way - with drawing up an electrical wiring plan. And that's why. Let's say you made a renovation without really thinking about the end result. They did it as they wanted.

We rearranged the furniture and arranged the household electronics. So what did we get? Catastrophe! All sockets were in “cold reserve”: one was blocked by a closet, another by a sofa, a third by a chest of drawers, and a fourth by a bedside table. Even to connect a TV and favorite stereo system, as per the law of meanness, there were no sockets within a radius of 3-4 meters.

And here begins a very fun and exciting game called “Scatter extension cords and pilots throughout the apartment.” The question arises: why did you make new electrical wiring so that you could then walk around and trip over extension cords? Imagine how much money and nerves can be wasted.

Wiring plan

Let's say you have an apartment in a new building, which still needs to be renovated before you move in.

Electrical work in an apartment is usually done first. Before starting electrical work, it is advisable to have a wiring plan. In the simplest version, it can be done by hand on a sheet of paper.

Drawing a wiring plan

So, you consulted with your household and made your decision. Now all the ideas and plans need to be transferred to paper. We draw a plan of your premises. How to do it? Let's take a standard one-room apartment as an illustrative example.

notebook sheet;
ruler;
pen;
colored pencils or markers.

The diagram shows the location of the walls and doorways. No specific dimensions are required, just a general picture.

An example of an apartment wiring plan

Sockets.
They can be located in any convenient place, but no less than 15–20 cm from door and window openings, as well as 40 cm away from heat and gas pipelines. As for the quantity, it is customary to install one for every 6 m 2 of area socket.
Lighting.
Standard layouts are designed for one large lamp in the center of the ceiling. But you can, if you wish, make additional light sources (spotlights, sconces, night lights), providing wiring for them.
Switches.
Usually they are mounted on the right side of the doorway and at a distance of 60 or 150 cm from the floor.
Cable routes.
When indicating them on your drawing, remember that the wiring must run strictly vertically or horizontally. No zigzags are allowed. If you plan to lay wires inside walls, then you should retreat 15–20 cm from ceilings and openings.
Distribution boxes.
They also need to be shown on the plan because they are where all the major cable connections are made. A box is placed on each branch from the main line, but no more than one per room.
Distribution panel.
Typically, power cabinets are installed outside the apartment in a common corridor. But some layouts are designed for internal placement of the shield, in which case the task will be a little simpler.

Marking

One way or another, between drawing up the plan and starting the rough work, there will be a procedure called “marking”.

In scientific language, marking is the operation of applying lines (scores) to the surface of the workpiece, which, according to the drawing, determine the contours of the part or place to be processed.

At the initial stages of work on distributing electricity in a room, markings are made as follows:

first of all, the locations of sockets and switches, as well as the locations of cable outlets for household appliances, are marked on the walls;
Next, the lines along which it will be produced are outlined;
locations for distribution boxes are determined;
the location where the apartment electrical panel will be installed is selected;
after this, the routes of cable routes from the electrical distribution panel to a specific electrical point are marked.

In most cases, changes in the electrical wiring diagram of an apartment are easier to make at the initial stage of work, namely at the marking stage. In this case, time and financial resources will be saved, since possible changes will entail additional costs.

lighting of living rooms, kitchens and corridors;
power supply for living rooms;
power supply to the kitchen and corridors;
lighting and power supply for the bathroom.

If the apartment has an electric stove, it must be separated into a separate group.

To increase safety, do not forget to install (RCDs), so-called residual current switches, on each group. They are also required to supply the electrical wiring of the bathroom and kitchen.

After the groups are designed, it is necessary to determine the connection points of all the main consumers of electricity. This includes a washing machine, electric stove, air conditioner, water heater, oven and dishwasher.

Now you can determine the installation locations of switches, lamps, junction boxes and sockets, and then apply them to the draft electrical plan of the apartment. Carefully connect all the circuits and mark the wire lengths.

Be sure to make two copies of the apartment’s electrical plan and put one of them in the family archive with documents. It will come in handy more than once.

Now the final electrical circuit is drawn up. To do this, an exact plan of all rooms is depicted on each sheet, taking into account all dimensions.

All electrical points on the electrical circuit are marked using generally accepted symbols and are connected by lines indicating wires. For better readability, we recommend marking the lighting, grounding and power cables in different colors.

Be sure to mark all distances: linear dimensions of rooms, distances from wires to walls, ceilings, floors, and also to heating systems. Such a diagram will not only be more visual, but it will also be possible to make all the necessary calculations.

Requirements, rules, norms

When drawing up a diagram, you should remember some important requirements for the location of electrical wiring in residential premises.

Do not connect the grounding contacts of sockets to the neutral wires, as well as to the water supply or heating system. This is dangerous for human life. There is a protective ground wire for this purpose.

If the apartment has an electric stove rather than a gas one, then the main circuit breaker must have a rating of at least 63A.

The wires are laid only vertically and horizontally, positioned strictly at right angles to each other.

You should not change their trajectory; in the future, this risks increasing the likelihood of the wires being punctured by a nail or drill when performing minor repair work. Crossing wires should be avoided. If this is not possible, then the distance between them should be more than 3 mm.

When setting dimensions on the plan, it is necessary to ensure that the distance from the cable to the floor or ceiling is at least 150 mm, to window frames, door jambs and corners - at least 100 mm. It is better to place all switches and sockets at the same height.

In this case, switches are installed to the left of the entrance doors at a height of 800-900 mm, and sockets - 250-300 mm. In some cases, such as in the kitchen, the distance may vary. The gap between the heating pipes and wires must be at least 30 mm. Wires are connected to sockets from below, and to switches from above.

Features of installing electrical wiring in rooms with high humidity

Until now, it was believed that installing a socket in a bathroom was prohibited. Indeed, the ban existed until 1996. A bathroom is a room with a damp environment, water taps, a large number of conductive pipelines and a steel bathtub, which poses an increased electrical hazard.

The ban has long been lifted, partly due to the widespread use of modern electrical safety equipment.

through a residual current device (RCD) with an operating current not exceeding 30 mA;
the electrical wiring must have a connected grounding contact (protective zero TN-S);
sockets should be located no closer than 60 cm from the doors of a closed shower stall;
at a height of at least 130 cm from the floor level.

How to properly conduct electrical wiring

on the first one, you should draw a plan for the location of switches and lighting equipment;
and on the second - sockets.

After this, the clients of the electrical circuit should be divided into groups.

lighting fixtures for living quarters, kitchen and hallway (10A automatic);
sockets in living rooms (25 A circuit breaker);
sockets in the kitchen and hallway (25 A circuit breaker);
lighting fixtures and sockets in the bathroom (these clients are grouped together because they work in a humid environment and have serious requirements).

For each household equipment, one group is allocated with a 25 or 32 A automatic machine. The equipment is divided into groups due to some nuances.

If all the equipment that consumes electricity is connected to one machine, then you will need a very thick cable that can withstand such a load. You will also have to buy an automatic machine designed for high power, and this will be quite expensive.

If one of the network elements breaks down, you will have to turn off the power to the entire apartment in order to begin restoration work.

When the electrical wiring diagram for a one-room apartment is ready, it is necessary to determine the number of all electricity consumers. You will have to calculate the required number of outlets based on the number of electrically powered equipment you already have, and also take into account future purchases.

Then you need to correctly position all sockets and switches.

switches and sockets should be placed to the left of the door;
in living rooms and hallways, sockets should be at a height of 0.4 meters, in the kitchen at a height of 0.95-1.15 meters;
switches should be located at a height of 0.9 meters;
It is necessary to mark the locations of switches and sockets in the diagram.

Then you should run the wires from the switches and sockets (meaning the plan). If you are connecting via distribution boxes, then all cables must first go to them, and then to the electrical panel.

cables must run strictly horizontally or vertically;
It is better to avoid crossing wires;
the cable must be installed at a distance of 0.15 meters from the ceiling and 0.1 meters from doors and windows;
the cable to the switch is fed from above, the cable to the socket from below.

The last step will be to calculate the cable footage and the total number of machines. When calculating cable footage, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the rooms, and when calculating the number of machines, one must proceed from the number of groups. You should also remember that all machines are ultimately connected to one, which is designed for high power.

If you already use or are planning to purchase an electric stove, then you need an automatic machine that is designed for at least 63 A.

Basic types of wiring

If you decide that you can handle the correct electrical wiring in your apartment, then first you need to choose the appropriate method for this.

There are three types of wiring:

using distribution boxes;
star;
plume.

"Through junction boxes."
This is the most common type of wiring. The electrical panel is located on the staircase, and not in the living room. The power cable comes from it, and the panel itself contains a meter and several switches (most often 1-3). In each individual room, power supply is provided through a distribution box located at the entrance.

"Star".
Each light point or outlet is located on a separate cable line running into the electrical panel and often has its own circuit breaker.

This wiring makes it possible to exercise full control over each element of the power supply chain. Among the disadvantages for the owner is a significant increase in the amount of necessary wiring and labor costs, the high cost of a fairly large panel, which leads to a significant increase in the cost of the project.

Wiring "Star"

"Plume".
The principle is similar to the “star” one, but differs in that not one element, but several are placed on one cable. The project will cost less than the previous one.

It is rare to find one of the options in its “pure form”. In each specific case, they are mixed to achieve the most effective result.

Combined wiring method

Nuances in a one-room apartment

kitchen and bathroom, where a large number of electrical appliances are concentrated;
living room.

This is done in order to obtain a power reserve by distributing the total load over two circuits, and also so that in the event of a short circuit or break in the circuit, one line, if possible, remains in working condition.

Electrical wiring diagram in an apartment (examples)

The given diagram of the apartment wiring of a standard two-room apartment with the location of the electrical panel near the entrance to the apartment is made in a somewhat simplified form. Only the main sources of lighting are presented here, that is, chandeliers, simple single-key switches, hidden sockets with a protective contact for grounding.

So, as you can see for yourself, you can create an electrical circuit yourself. A specialist will do this job much better, but every apartment owner should be able to correctly determine the location of the wires in order to avoid accidental damage to them by an unsuccessfully driven nail or drill bit.

Installation of electrical wiring in the apartment

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment, step by step, is a matter that requires increased attention to the work being performed, strict adherence to safety standards and installation rules.

The slightest mistakes can cause a short circuit. There are a number of certain rules, following which you can make high-quality electrical wiring.

Carrying out electrical work is not particularly difficult for those who know how to handle the tool.

Installation can be done in either of two ways. Hidden installation methods include embedding wiring into walls, ceilings and voids, under floor coverings, behind plasterboard sheets.

The open installation method includes laying cables in special boxes, cable ducts, using staples and clips. Both of these methods have their advantages. To perform installation, first of all, it is necessary to move all furniture and household appliances away from the walls and, if a major renovation is being carried out, remove all construction debris.

Let's look briefly at each of these stages.

Methods for laying electrical wires and cables

open;
hidden.

ceiling gasket;
laying on walls;
and flooring.

Hidden way

This technology is the most dusty and dirty, since you will have to trench the walls and ceiling or tear off the floor covering. Therefore, it is best to perform it during a major overhaul.

If the electrical supply project plans for wiring along the walls, then we mark them with places for wiring, pick up a hammer drill or grinder and cut out grooves of a certain width and depth. We select the depth on the basis that after laying the wiring or cable, the layer of plaster will be no more than 10 mm, the width is unlimited.

We cut out places for sockets and distribution boxes using a special crown. We remember about load-bearing walls and make grooves in them that are not too deep. In apartments of panel houses, the interfloor ceilings have internal voids in which wiring can be laid.

Today, monolithic structures with brick interior floors are more popular; in such apartments, grooves are made in all walls, the main thing is not to catch the load-bearing monolithic beams.

The most economical option for hidden installation is installation under the floor covering. The main thing is the presence of corrugations for each wire. This is done for convenience in case of repair or replacement of wires and for additional insulation.

After the grooves are equipped, they begin to install the lighting distribution panel and lay the cable. The shield itself can be mounted or embedded in the wall. In new houses there is a special niche for it, and in old houses it is fixed to the wall using self-tapping screws.

Inside the panel we install machines from which VVG-3*2.5 wires will go to the sockets and the main line. We lay VVG-3*1.5 from distribution boxes to lighting fixtures. For stationary high-power devices we make separate lines from VVG-3*2.5 cable. At the places where the connection points are installed, we make an outlet of 15-20 cm.

Now in distribution boxes into a single network. The highest quality connection will be the use of P&S. To avoid mixing up the wires during connection, you can hang tags with specific markings on them.

After that, using a tester, we check the entire network for damage and errors. If everything is fine, then we wall it up, put the switches and sockets in place.

Outdoor installation

For rooms where it is prohibited or impossible to lay wires hidden, open installation is used (external wiring in the apartment). For these purposes, boxes, cable channels or special clips are used. The installation is quite simple and is carried out only along the walls and ceiling.

The first thing we do is mark the laying location and drill holes for fastening in increments of 40-50 cm; if the space for the wire is less than 0.5 m, then we make increments of 15 cm for two fastening points.

After this, we attach boxes, cable ducts or clips to the wall or ceiling. We install external junction boxes at the wiring points, and carry out the wire connections, wiring and installation of connection points in the same way as in the hidden installation method.

The advantage of open mounting is easy access to all wiring, but the disadvantage is that it is not very aesthetically pleasing.

Typically, cables from the apartment electrical distribution board are laid along the ceiling (floor slab).

Holes are drilled in the ceiling, then when laying the cable, a cable fastener is inserted into this hole. I will dwell on this in detail, I will only say that there are many installation options (for example, a dowel-clamp, dowels with a tie).

Tools needed for electrical installation

A wall chaser (or, in extreme cases, a grinder) for cutting furrows, a hammer drill.
Screwdriver Set.
Pliers, wire cutters.
Building level.
Phase indicator.
Drills, a crown for a hammer drill for drilling out sockets for socket boxes.
Knife and hacksaw.

If you don’t have a professional tool, you can always rent one.

Which wire to use for wiring in an apartment

Currently, there is no question about what kind of wire is needed for wiring in the apartment. For the installation of home electrical wiring, wires and cables are used exclusively with copper conductors. Wires and cables with aluminum conductors cannot be used for internal electrical wiring.

increased ductility (less likely to break during installation);
corrosion resistance (oxidizes more slowly);
long service life relative to aluminum;
can withstand greater loads with a smaller cross-section.

Wires and cables can be single-core or multi-core. Multicore wires and cables have two or more cores reliably insulated from each other in a common sheath.

An example of a stranded wire is a wire of the PRTO brand (a wire with a copper core with rubber insulation in a braid of cotton yarn impregnated with an anti-rot composition). The cores of single-core and multi-core wires and cables can be made single-wire and multi-wire.

Cables and wires differ from each other in the type of sheath and names. The sheath of wires and cables serves to protect the insulation of the cores from exposure to light, moisture, various chemicals and prevent them from mechanical damage. The cable may include armor, and the sheath allows it to be installed in more adverse environmental conditions.

Wires can only be laid in a hidden way; if laid openly, only in pipes and ducts. Cables can be laid openly.

The most popular cable for use in home electrical wiring is VVGng; NYM cable and PUNP wire are less commonly used.

To connect to the floor panel, it is best to use an NYM cable. The same cable is used to connect the floor panel with the apartment or room panels (provided that they exist). Usually such shields are organized in private cottages.

It can also be used for individual connection of powerful consumers. This cable can be used to do all the power wiring in an apartment or house, but since it costs more than the VVGng cable and PUNP wire, it is used less often for these purposes.

VVG is an unarmored protected cable with copper conductors, polyvinyl chloride insulation, in a polyvinyl chloride sheath. The cable can be used in dry and damp areas.

The VVG cable is not designed for stretching. The insulated conductors of the VVG cable are twisted and have a distinctive color. The inner shell does not contain filling in the intervein space.

Cable VVGng

The designation “ng” in the name of the cable (VVGng) means that it does not propagate combustion when laid in bundles (a composition based on fire-resistant plastic is used). If VVG cable is used instead of VVGng cable, then if one of the cables catches fire, the flame will spread to other cables instead of localizing the fire.

The VVGng cable has a wide variety of shapes. It is most convenient to use a VVGng flat cable. In addition, it can also be round, square, sector, and even triangular.

NUM cable (NYM) – produced according to the German standard DIN 57250. The cable can be used indoors for hidden and open installation. NYM cable can be used outdoors, only out of direct sunlight. NYM cable has reduced flammability and gas and smoke emission, which is especially important for residential premises.

NYM cable

The NYM cable consists of copper cores, an intermediate sheath of chalk-filled rubber and a sheath of flame retardant polyvinyl chloride insulation. The use of an intermediate sheath in the cable design makes it easy and convenient to cut the cable during installation, increases its fire hazard and increases flexibility.

PUNP – installation flat wire. This is the cheapest wire of all cable and wire products used for installing electrical wiring in the home. PUNP wire is produced with two or three single-wire copper cores and polyvinyl chloride insulation in a PVC sheath. The veins can be painted in different colors.

Wire PUNP

PUNP wire is only available flat. These cable and wire products are used for both power and lighting networks. In the second case, wires of smaller cross-sections are used.

Much less often, when wiring home electrical systems, rubber-insulated wires of the PRN, PRI, and PRTO brands are used. The PRTO wire is intended for laying in fireproof pipes, PRI - can be used for laying in dry and damp rooms, PRN (protected wire) - in the open air, PRD, PRVD (two-core twisted wire) - only in lighting networks of dry rooms.

For open wiring, it is convenient to use a flat wire with copper conductors and polyvinyl chloride insulation with a dividing base of the PPV brand, as well as a wire with polyethylene insulation PPP. There is a flat wire without a dividing base - PPVS, but it is not very convenient to use.

Previously used wires with aluminum conductors (APR, APV, APRTO, APPV) are now not used in the construction and modernization of home electrical wiring.

Wire with copper core and polyvinyl chloride insulation PV. PV wires can be single-wire or multi-wire. Wires are available with different insulation colors. In household electrical wiring, single-core wire PV1 in yellow-green coloring is used for the potential equalization system (PSUP).

Wire PV1

When choosing wires and cables, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of the PUE for insulation painting.

The insulation of the neutral working conductor should be blue, the neutral protective conductor should be yellow-green. The color of the insulation of phase conductors must be different from the color of neutral conductors. There are many options here - brown, red, grey, white, black, etc.

It is also very convenient to use a different color of phase conductors for each section of electrical wiring, as well as different colors of core insulation for power and lighting wiring.

If you choose and then install electrical wiring with a wire or cable without complying with the requirements for the color of the cores, then in the future this will lead to significant difficulties in servicing and repairing electrical equipment in the apartment. In addition, the installation process itself can be very complicated, especially when using a large number of switches and sockets.

For different groups of household electrical appliances, wires with different cross-sections should be used.

Lighting - wire cross-section from 1.5 mm (automatic - 16 A).
Sockets - cross-section must be at least 2.5 mm (circuit breaker - 20 A).
Powerful electrical appliances, such as electric stoves and hobs - at least 4 mm (25 A).

Installation of residential electrical panel

Before laying cables, it is advisable to mount the electrical panel into the wall. The size of the switchboard is selected according to the number of circuit breakers, RCDs, and differential circuit breakers that will be installed in it.

The boards are produced in the following main sizes: 4, 8, 12, 18, 24, 36, 48, 60, 72 modules (1 module = 1 single-pole circuit breaker). In an apartment, panels of 12, 24, or 36 modules are usually used.

In my practice of electrical installation of apartments, in most cases I use electrical panels with 24 or 36 modules (24 modules for a 1-room apartment, 36 modules for a 2 or 3 room apartment).

One shield may not be enough if you plan to use equipment for telecommunication networks (router, media converter). In this case, it is rational to place these components in an additional electrical panel, which is installed next to the main (power) panel.

Modern electrical panels are hidden in the wall and do not take up much space.

The advantages of installing an additional electrical panel are that it accommodates the network equipment that is necessary for the functioning of television and the Internet. Thus, a router hung in the hallway on a nail is a thing of the past. In return come functional and ergonomic solutions.

Installation of socket boxes and distribution boxes

After marking, the locations of future sockets and switches became visible. In most cases, nowadays, sockets are installed closer to the floor at a height of about 20-40 cm from the floor, switches - at a height of 70-90 cm from the floor.

This rule is not strictly mandatory; changes are possible upon request. For example, it is more convenient for tall people to use switches located higher; for short people, on the contrary, it is better if the switch is placed lower.

Sockets and switches can be assembled into blocks of up to 5 pieces, and sometimes up to 6 in one line. Moreover, both vertical and horizontal installation is possible. All these points should already be taken into account when marking.

Now all that remains is to drill holes in the wall for the socket boxes. The standard European socket box has a diameter of 68 mm. When folding several socket boxes in a row, the distance between their centers should be exactly 71 mm. The depth of the socket boxes is 45 mm or 60 mm.

Deeper ones are used, for example, for installing a temperature controller for a heated floor or for switching electrical wires if necessary.

After this, holes are drilled for the junction boxes. Typically, distribution boxes (they are also called doses) are mounted under the ceiling at a distance of approximately 15-30 cm from the ceiling. The following rule must be observed: doses must be on the same vertical axis with sockets and/or switches located below.

Not everyone likes having distribution boxes visible on the wall. Installation of distribution boxes under the ceiling is allowed, provided the wires are connected by welding or crimping.

Wall chipping

Grooving is the process of cutting grooves (deepening, furrows) in concrete, brick or plaster layer for the subsequent installation of communications into it (in electrical communications are electrical cables and wires, in plumbing – pipes).

Before cutting, it is necessary to indicate the width and depth of the groove.

number of cables laid together;
cable sections;
the location of the cables in the groove relative to each other.

Regarding the last point, it is worth clarifying: cables in a groove can be laid either flat or deep into the groove. In one case the groove is made deeper, in the other - wider. Here each electrician decides for himself.

You should not make the groove too wide (with a margin) - during installation the wire will constantly fall out and will have to be secured in the groove with special clips or “grabbed” with plaster. It is ideal to make a groove 4 mm wide for a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm - the cable fits in there with a little tension and holds without problems.

I strongly recommend making grooves using a wall chaser with a connected industrial vacuum cleaner, and not using an angle grinder for this. Since fine dust after such gating will settle for quite a long time, which can stall all the work.

Professional electricians usually have all these tools (wall chaser and industrial vacuum cleaner) in stock. If you install them yourself, you can rent them.

Wiring

along the ceiling;
by gender;
along the walls.

there is no risk of breaking the wire during repairs;
There is always a way to get to the wiring.

If necessary, you can always remove the suspended ceiling, make changes to the electrical wiring, and then install the ceiling in place. When laying on the floor, you will have to chisel the screed, which is fraught with high costs.

Connecting wires in a junction box

twist;
soldering;
welding;
crimping;
PPE caps;

Please note that only connections made by welding and crimping (as the most reliable) can be bricked up according to the PUE.

Cost of electrical installation work in an apartment

Price list for electrician services:

Average cost of turnkey electrical installation work

There is another approach when calculating the cost of electrical installation work. The turnkey price is determined depending on the number of installation points.

socket;
switch;
lamp;
chandelier, etc.

Prices for electrical installation of one point range from 700 to 1500 rubles. (of course, excluding the cost of materials).

Do-it-yourself wiring in the apartment from the panel

Any work related to electricity requires a serious, competent approach, therefore wiring diagram in the apartment, must be well thought out and executed with high quality. It is with the electrics that renovations begin in a new apartment or house. Any major home renovation should begin with it. The main stages of repair are as follows. First, wires are laid along all the walls, then they become overgrown primer, painting mesh,plaster, putty and wallpaper. Under this thick layer,

The electrical wiring will remain in place for decades. That is why, before installing it, you need to think very carefully about the future wiring diagram in the apartment.

Where to start

As a rule, at the first stages of renovation, people usually have little idea of the final result. And for proper electrical wiring, it would be very desirable to present it. Since the functionality and logic of the location of sockets, switches, lighting, and, in general, all wiring in general will depend on this. The electrical wiring diagram in a private house or apartment should always start the same way, with drawing up an electrical plan. And that's why. Let’s say you made a repair, but didn’t think much about the end result, as the electrician advised, so you did. All is ready. We put the furniture in its place, arranged the consumer electronics, and what did we get? Catastrophe! All sockets turned out to be in cold reserve, one was blocked by a closet, another by a sofa, a third by a chest of drawers and a fourth by a bedside table, even near the TV and favorite stereo system, as by the law of meanness, there were no sockets within a radius of 3-4 meters. And here begins a very fun and exciting game called, scatter extension cords and pilots throughout the apartment. The question is, why did you make new electrical wiring so that you could then walk around and trip over extension cords? Of course no. And in an apartment, this is half the trouble, but an incorrectly executed electrical wiring diagram in a private house promises more global consequences. After all, if in apartments, wiring changes on average every 20-25 years, then in private residential buildings, much less often or never at all. And how many extension cords are needed for a two or three story house, and there are still more of them Do I need to buy it, how much money will it cost? And how many nerves will be spent every time, like you again, you'll stumble about the pilot wire lying on the floor.

What to do? Sit down and think calmly, decide on the arrangement of furniture and household electronics. Be sure to note what new electrical appliances you plan to purchase in the coming years. For example: an air conditioner, a dishwasher, a freezer, an electric water heater, an electric oven or hob, and so on, and where, after these acquisitions, existing cabinets, sofas and bedside tables can be moved. Consult with your family, wife and children; in practice, their advice turns out to be very useful.

Drawing a diagram - power part

The installation of electrical wiring from the very beginning to the end is described in as much detail as possible, with all explanations and pictures, in a step-by-step guide

So, you've made your decision. Now, you need to put all your ideas and plans on paper. We draw a plan of your premises. How to do it? Let's take a standard one-room apartment as an illustrative example. To complete the scheme we need:

notebook sheet
ruler
pen
colored pencils or markers

The diagram shows the location of the walls and doorways. No specific dimensions required, just a general idea.
Here we have a diagram of the apartment. Simple and clear.

To make it clear what we are talking about, I will number and label the rooms:

Room 1 - hall
room 2 - kitchen
room 3 - bathroom
room 4 - hallway

Now, we need to draw on our diagram the locations of furniture and household appliances.

Room 1 - hall: 1 - wardrobe 2 - sofa, 3 - chair 4 - stereo system (home theater) 5 - TV (plasma TV) 6 - computer	Room 2 - kitchen: 13 - kitchen set (work area) 14 - dishwasher 15 – refrigerator 16 - chairs 17 – table 18 - gas stove 19 - microwave oven
Room 3 - bathroom: 8 - wall cabinet 9 - toilet 10 - sink 11 - bathroom 12 - washing machine	Room 4 - hallway: 7 - cabinet

Items marked in red are consumers of electricity, which means we will need sockets in these places. Now, we simplify the diagram, remove the furniture, and draw designation of sockets on the diagram. This is the diagram we should get.
Now, let's clarify the conventions that we have used and will continue to use in our diagrams.

I will duplicate the signatures, from top to bottom:

socket
double socket
single-key switch
two-gang switch
lamp, chandelier, light bulb
junction box (distribution box)
end of the wire for further connection of equipment
power shield

Specific dimensions and locations of sockets will need to be indicated on the diagram as soon as you have finally decided on the placement of furniture and equipment.

Drawing a diagram - lighting part

In our example, all chandeliers and lamps will be located in the center of the room. Let's start drawing with room number 1 - the hall. The coordinates of the location of the lamps, length and width, if the exact dimensions of the room are available, can be indicated immediately. For our example, there are no specific dimensions, so we will take all the necessary measurements during the first stage of installation - marking. For example, I’ll show you how to find the center of a room. First, measure the width of the room and divide the resulting value in half. For example, if the width turns out to be 4 meters, we divide it in half, 4: 2 = 2, it turns out to be 2 meters.
Now, measure the length of the room and also divide it in half. For example, the length is 6 meters, divide in half, 6: 2 = 3, it turns out 3 meters. We know the coordinates of the middle. Using the given values, we mark the center of the room. I marked it with a cross.
Similarly, we mark out all the other rooms.
We divide the L-shaped room, number 4 (hallway), into two parts and also mark it out.
Now, we replace the crosses with the symbols of the lamps and get this picture.
To complete our diagram, we need to draw switches. To do this, we need to think again and decide, this time, on the interior doors. Namely, which side they will open to, left or right, and where, inward or outward. This is done so that some kind of switch does not turn out accidentally outside the door when the repairs are done fully ready. Usually, doors are opened at the smallest angle. Here, the usefulness of the space on the left and right is taken into account, but neither forget about the furniture, the door should not rest against it. So, we decided on the doors.

Now, we can draw the switches. As a rule, switches are located inside rooms. So that when you open the door and enter the room, you can immediately turn on the light, and turn it off when leaving. Control of the light in a particular room will be entirely in the hands of the person in it. We went to bed, turned off the light, but did not need to leave the room. Comfortable. The exception is damp and damp areas, such as the bathroom and toilet. Here, the switches are taken outside, since the constant entry of moisture into the switch will lead to its rapid failure.

We draw switches on the diagram using conditionaldesignations. Before you begin installing the electrical wiring, you will need to indicate on the diagram the specific dimensions of the switches, the height and distance from the edge of the door.

So, in the end we got two pictures:

socket layout diagram
diagram of lamps and switches

The first stage is completed. Based on its results, we have the first and main part of the electrical circuit.

Stage two, wiring diagram

To begin with, you need to calculate and think through the route of laying the wire in detail. To do this, you need to carefully examine the room in which installation is planned. Know exactly what finishing and finishing work will be done. What you should be interested in:
Suspended, stretch ceilings
Will the walls be plastered, if so, what will be the thickness of the layer?
For monolithic houses, you need to know which walls are load-bearing
The location of the floor slabs, how the channels run and how clean they are
Why is it important. I will explain with a specific example.
Let's say that in our one-room apartment, which we took as an example in the first part, suspended ceilings are planned. From an electrical point of view, this is simply wonderful. The fact is that now, if electrical installation work is carried out independently, you can save a lot of effort and time, as well as a lot of money, on materials. Savings occur due to the fact that now it becomes possible to choose a combined method of installing hidden electrical wiring.
We install the wire along the ceiling in a non-flammable corrugated pipe, we make descents to sockets and switches in vertical grooves.
Look at how many benefits we get using this installation method:
If the electrical wiring is being replaced, hidden, without updating the plaster layer, there is no need to do the lion's share of the hard work of making horizontal grooves for laying the wire. This type of preparatory work takes almost 50% of the time spent on the entire electrical wiring installation cycle.
There is no need to run wires through the ceiling slab channels. This laying method is used to covertly lay a wire to the center of the room to power a chandelier or lamp. We save effort and time, the channels of floor slabs are not always clean, in some situations you have to tinker.
We significantly reduce the amount of wire required. When laying it along the walls, you have to go around extra distances, installing it along the ceiling, you can lay it along the shortest path.
This example shows how the ratio of time and money spent on the entire installation cycle can change. That is why this issue should be approached so scrupulously.
What you should pay attention to if the installation of electrical wiring will be carried out using the standard installation method, hidden along the walls.
It is highly advisable to try to avoid concrete floors located above windows and doors. The first reason is that ditching them is very problematic. Second, in the future, incidents may arise when installing curtains for curtains.
It is necessary to correctly determine how the channels run in the floor slabs, since wires for chandeliers and lamps will be laid in them.
Calculate the location of distribution boxes. With the correct quantity and location, you can significantly reduce the amount of wire required for installation.
If the house is monolithic concrete, you should calculate the location of sockets and switches so that they do not fall on the supporting structures. Violating their integrity is strictly prohibited!
After we have taken into account all the points, we move on to sketching the wiring diagram. To do this, we use two schemes that we obtained in the first stage. We superimpose the diagrams on top of each other and get the overall picture.

Let's start with room number 1. Here, there will be standard ceilings for painting, therefore, the wires will be mounted on the walls, for the chandelier in the channel of the ceiling slab. In this room there will be two double sockets, one switch and a chandelier. We pull the wire, starting from the farthest corner, since it contains the first double sockets in the chain. We stop at the exit from the room, where the junction box will be located.

I would not recommend making sockets in a ribbon cable; this will significantly reduce the throughput capacity of the last socket. It will be more correct and reliable to make all connections in the junction box. Therefore, we run the wire directly, from each outlet, to the box. We sketch the route of the wire from the second double socket.

Now, we draw the route for laying the wire, from the chandelier to the junction box.

From switch to box.

All the wires are collected in one place, sketch out the location of the junction box.

Similarly, we sketch the routes for laying the wires of other rooms.
Electrical wiring in the kitchen. Here, it is possible to use the channel of the floor slab to shorten the route of the wire to one of the sockets. We pass the wires through the channel of the stove, thereby saving time and wire.

Almost every owner needs to replace the electrical wiring in an apartment. Especially if the apartment is located in a house built more than 20-30 years ago. At that time, most of the household appliances and electronics now in use did not exist, so the wiring was not originally designed for such a load and was made primarily of aluminum.

Over time, the characteristics of such wiring deteriorate significantly. If you apply excessive load to such wiring, it simply will not withstand it and will burn out.

Experts strongly recommend entrusting any electrical work to professionals. However, if you wish, you can carry out all the necessary activities yourself. You just need to familiarize yourself with the general information about the upcoming work, remember the safety regulations and carry out installation in accordance with the instructions.

Remember: it is pointless to perform partial wiring replacement. If you decide to take such measures, then change everything completely: the panel, switches, electrical sockets, etc.

First find out the layout of the old wiring. In some situations, the circuit is organized in such a way that it is impossible to replace existing components with new ones, and the only available solution is to dismantle the highways and arrange the wiring in a new way.

For example, there are situations in which the wiring is made in grooves located under the floor covering. If the owner’s plans do not include a complete replacement of the coating, the only possible option in this situation is to disconnect the old wires and lay new lines using a different method.

If the cables were initially laid in grooves, there will be no special problems with replacement, but the wall covering will be significantly damaged.

The easiest way is to replace electrical wiring laid in an open circuit. With this scheme, the cables are laid in special channels (ducts). If the boxes were not initially disguised with finishing, for example, plasterboard, then the repair work will take place with minimal losses.

Before you begin, you will need to draw up a new wiring diagram. Select the wiring method. It is strongly recommended to refuse the open method - it simply does not look aesthetically pleasing in an apartment. Give preference to either closed installation or arrangement of wiring in cable channels.

Sketch out a housing plan on paper indicating the locations of switches, sockets and other components.

It is more convenient if the sockets are placed in places where powerful household appliances are installed. Calculate the optimal number of sockets. It is more convenient when there is one outlet for every 5-6 m2 of space. A 6 m2 kitchen should have at least three sockets.

If an electric stove is installed in an apartment, a separate outlet must be installed for it. In this case, the power cable of such an outlet must have a cross-section of at least 4 mm 2, or even 6 mm 2. The specific value is selected individually in accordance with the power of the equipment.

There are no strict requirements regarding the height of sockets. The main thing is that they are convenient to use.

It is most convenient to install switches immediately after entering the room. The optimal distance between the switch and the door is at least 150 mm. Place the switch on the side of the vestibule. It will not be very convenient to use near the hinges. There are also no strict recommendations regarding the installation height of switches - do what is convenient for you.

Pre-determine the total power of electrical appliances for each individual room. If a large number of powerful devices are installed within one room, separate lines with individual circuit breakers are connected to such a room.

In accordance with the selected locations for installing switches and sockets, select convenient areas for installing distribution boxes. Indicate their locations in the plan.

Indicate in the plan the type, material of manufacture and cross-section of cables for each room.

Check the wiring diagram again. Think about whether everything suits you, whether it will be convenient for you to use sockets and switches mounted according to this scheme in the future. If you are satisfied with the result, complete the basic preparatory steps.

First of all, mark the locations of switches and electrical outlets on the walls. If the wiring will be carried out using a hidden method, get rid of all finishing materials, and then draw on the walls the lines for the wires and the installation locations of the elements of the new system.

If you wish, you can get rid of the old wiring. First, get rid of switches and sockets, then distribution boxes and cables. But this is quite dusty and lengthy work. It is much easier to simply disconnect the old wires, dismantle switches and sockets, seal their installation sites and lay new cables in accordance with the diagram.

Safety precautions

All work on dismantling and installing electrical cables must be carried out in strict accordance with safety precautions. Before performing any manipulations, turn off the main circuit breaker, i.e., turn off the power to the apartment.

Using the indicator, make sure there is no voltage in chandeliers, electrical outlets, and switches. Do all this while wearing rubber gloves. The handles of the working tool must be insulated.

Replacement of wiring should begin with the installation of a new distribution panel. New houses usually have niches for such panels with pre-laid power cables. In such a situation, all that remains is to place residual current devices and circuit breakers in the panel, fix the device in the niche intended for this and connect the power cable to it.

In older houses, the shields are made hinged. Select a location to install the shield with easy access. Secure the shield to the wall using dowels.

Drill a suitable hole in the wall for connecting the power cable. Stretch the wire and connect it to the panel on the driveway.

Strip the input wire and make the following connection:

blue cable - to zero;
white wire - to the top contact;
yellow cable - to ground.

In the case of using emergency shutdown devices, first connect the zero and phase wires to such a device and only then connect them to the machine and to the zero terminal.

Proceed with wiring. We offer you two methods. Familiarize yourself with the procedure for completing each of them and get to work.

Hidden installation of new wiring

Concealed electrical wiring is installed in grooves, under the floor finish, in ceiling voids, under a layer of plaster or behind plasterboard finishing.

Installation of wiring under the plaster layer and in grooves is the most “dirty” and labor-intensive option. Some owners lay cables along the floor. This allows you not to go around the existing walls, but requires complete dismantling of the covering and laying new material in its place.

First step

Make grooves. To arrange them, use a wall chaser or at least a grinder and a hammer drill. Remember safety - be sure to wear safety glasses and a respirator.

When choosing the depth of the grooves, remember: the thickness of the plaster layer laid on top of them should be no more than 1 cm. There are no restrictions on the width.

If it is possible to lay wires in floor voids, give preference to this method.

Second step

Third step

To do this, cut the cables into pieces of the required length. In some situations, corrugation can be used for greater convenience. With its help, it will be easier in the future to replace a section of cable without compromising the integrity of the finishing material of the walls.

A method is also sometimes used, according to which a bundle of cables is pulled together using special clamps and attached to the wall using suitable fasteners.

Fourth step

Connect the cables in the junction boxes. To do this, use SIZ. Cover the connected cables with a cover.

Fifth step

Install switches and electrical outlets in selected locations. Connect the cables to the contacts. Make sure the installed system is working properly using a special tester.

Finally, all you have to do is turn on the electricity supply from the power panel and seal the grooves with plaster.

If you choose the method of installing wiring under plasterboard finishing, the technology for performing the work will be slightly different. In such a situation, the wires must be hidden in corrugations, and the corrugations are attached to the walls using clips.

This technique is much simpler and less dusty compared to the previous method, but its aesthetics leave much to be desired. Connecting the shield is carried out in a similar sequence.

First step

Attach the plinth to the floor surface in accordance with the previously drawn up diagram.

Second step

Run distribution boxes from the baseboard to switches and electrical outlets.

Third step

Place the cables in the box.

Fourth step

Install external junction boxes if installation is required. To connect the wires inside such boxes, use SIZ.

Fifth step

Install sockets and switches, bring wires inside, connect.

Finally, all that remains is to check the voltage using a tester and close the box with the baseboards.

It is also advisable to invite a qualified electrician to check that the measures are carried out correctly.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment

Is it really possible for an ordinary unprepared person to wire an apartment?
with your own hands, turnkey?

I answer. If you are not a pathological lazy person, then definitely yes.

This article presents one of the parts of a practical manual for implementation, do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment, step-by-step instructions, with detailed comments and explanations from the author. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that similar video and text material is published online as a paid material; on this resource, from beginning to end, it is presented completely free of charge and is freely available to all site visitors.

In this manual, we will examine in as much detail as possible the issue of performing stationary electrical wiring in an apartment exclusively with our own hands, and the entire process will be considered from the very beginning to the end.

Briefly about what the step-by-step instructions for do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment include:

Stage 1. Preparation and implementation of the apartment's electrical wiring diagram. Selection, brands and calculation of wire cross-section, room illumination, as well as electrical circuit protection devices.
Stage 2. Installation of electrical wiring. Laying wires, connecting wire cores in junction boxes. Installation and connection of a residential power panel. Checking the completed electrical wiring.
Stage 3. Installation of socket boxes (installation boxes).
Stage 4. Installation of sockets and lamps. Connecting electrical household devices that do not have fixed sockets.

Who will benefit from this guide?

First of all, for those who have decided or are planning to carry out full or partial installation or replacement of the electrical wiring of an apartment or room on their own. And also for those who want to perform high-quality electrical wiring using the electrical installation services of private companies or organizations.

Based on the fact that this topic is very large and simply physically cannot be compressed into one article, the material is divided into several small but most detailed parts.

What is an apartment wiring diagram and why is it needed?

Let's start from the very beginning.

First of all, in order to carry out the electrical wiring, we need an electrical diagram of the room.

An electrical wiring diagram is a floor plan that shows the following elements in schematic form:

Sockets.
Switches.
Lighting lamps.
Distribution boxes.
Power shield.
Places for electrical outlets for subsequent connection of various equipment to them (for example, air conditioners, hobs and ovens, forced ventilation).
Route for laying wires of the power and lighting parts.

An example circuit is shown in the figure below.

Why do you need a room wiring diagram?

The explanation should begin with the fact that the electrical wiring diagram is the foundation of a competently executed repair. And that's why:

It is with the electrical wiring that any major repair begins.
Subsequent stages of repair will block access to almost all changes to the electrical wiring of the room.
The final indicator of the level of comfort of the room (if we talk about high-quality repairs) will again be the electrics - this is sufficient illumination of the room, conveniently located sockets and switches in the right places

Important! A correctly drawn up diagram is a guide to the competent implementation of all electrical wiring of any room.

I will describe one of the many advantages of performing electrical wiring according to the diagram, which will clearly show end users the importance of this stage.

We are all familiar with the following thing.

That's right, these are various kinds of extension cords, network adapters and carriers. If we consider the finished electrics of an apartment from the point of view of comfort, then the absence or minimal use of the mobile electricity transfer device presented above will be one of the criteria for well-thought-out electrical wiring. After all, if, as a result of the completed renovation, half of your sockets end up in places where large-sized furniture will stand (wardrobes, beds, sofas), then with a hundred percent probability those same ill-fated extension cords and carriers will be lying all over the floor of the apartment. The question arises, why then do new electrical wiring at all?

An example of electrical wiring without a diagram.

Before us is a one-room apartment, which consists of 4 rooms:

Kitchen.

Bathroom, toilet (shared).

Hallway.

Using the example of a large living room, without relying on how the ground will stand, we will try to arrange the sockets according to the area of the given room.

Let me remind you that our room is a hall.

It is most logical to distribute the sockets at different ends of the room. For example, like this.

Based on my own experience as an electrician, I note the following: in 90% of cases, the distribution of sockets occurs “out of the blue,” so to speak, and they are distributed either in a hurry by the owner, who is urged on by hard-working plasterers and plumbers, or they are distributed by the electrician at his own discretion. We will see what this negligent attitude leads to in the following figures.

The renovation is complete, furniture and household appliances have been placed.

Where will the sockets be?

Of the 4 sockets distributed throughout the room, 2 will be blocked by furniture and will never be used.

What do we have to lose? Let's figure it out:

The effort and time to lay the wire, install 2 socket boxes (mounting cups) and install 2 sockets.
Money to buy 2 sockets, extra meters of wire, 2 socket boxes (mounting cups).

And if you take into account that the installation will be carried out by hired electricians, then you should add the cost of laying the wire, installing socket boxes (mounting cups) and sockets.

I think that during the renovation process, wasted money can be put to more necessary and useful use.

Using a fairly simple example, we saw how important a wiring diagram can be. I note that we only disassembled one room of the apartment presented in the example. Imagine what would happen if you made mindless electrical installations everywhere.

Now that we have an understanding of the importance of drawing up and diagramming the electrical wiring of an apartment, we can move on to part 2 of the step-by-step instructions for wiring an apartment with our own hands.

When renovating or purchasing an open-plan apartment with a rough finish, the issue of electrical wiring will certainly arise. The choice of connection diagram, as well as the choice of materials used, will depend on where the partitions, household and lighting fixtures will be located, and what the purpose of the premises will be. It is necessary to take into account the material of the walls and floors where the electrical wiring will pass. The main thing is to correctly determine what you ultimately want to get. Only after figuring this out can you begin to develop a wiring diagram. This is essentially a wiring diagram, so the installation requirements must be taken into account.

Main rules

Electrical wiring should be designed in compliance with building codes and regulations, and installation should be carried out in accordance with the rules for electrical installations. The requirements of these documents must be observed, since they were written taking into account all accidents at home and at work.

Below are the basic rules for installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment. According to them, diagrams are drawn up.

Easy access to the distribution board, meter, distribution boxes, sockets and electrical wiring switches must be provided.
Sockets must be installed at a height of 30–80 cm from the floor and no closer than 50 cm to gas, electric stoves, heating radiators and pipes. The cable to the sockets must be laid from below. The number of installed sockets in a room is determined at the rate of 1 socket per 6 square meters. The kitchen is equipped with as many sockets as required for the appliances. The outlet in the bathroom should be connected through a low-power transformer located behind its walls.

Switches in the apartment are installed at a height of 60 - 150 cm from the floor in easily accessible places. The wire to the switches is laid from above.

Cables must be laid in a straight horizontal or vertical line. Crossing of cables, as well as diagonal or curved laying is not allowed. When laying electrical wiring horizontally, the distance between the wires and the floor beams must be at least 10 cm; ceiling and wire 10 - 15 cm, and laid from the floor at a height of 15-20 cm. In a vertical installation scheme, the wires must be at a distance of at least 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening; from gas pipes - more than 40 cm.

Cables for any type of electrical wiring (external or hidden) should not come into contact with fittings, mortgages and other metal parts of building structures.

If you are laying a cable under a heating pipe, you need to remember that the distance between them must be at least 3 cm. When laying parallel, you need to provide a gap between the wires of more than 3 mm or conduct them separately in a cable channel or corrugated pipe. Wire connections should only be made inside junction boxes.

Connection of cables made of different metals is carried out through a special block. The ground and neutral wires are attached to the devices only with a bolted connection.

Wiring methods

There are three ways to install wiring in an apartment:

star;
plume;
combined.

The first star wiring diagram. With this wiring, each device has its own automatic overload protection switch and a cable running from the distribution board to the device. This wiring option is good in that it is possible to control any device and in case of repair there is no need to disconnect other devices. Used in the Smart Home system. It is useful when raising children; you can set the time for connecting a particular device, turn off the lights at a certain time; to scare away thieves by programming the switching on and off of lighting fixtures in the absence of the owners according to a specific algorithm. It has one drawback - it is the most expensive.

The following circuit is called a “loop”. This type of wiring is similar to the previous option, but several devices are located on one cable. Significantly cheaper than Zvezda.

The most common version of the electrical wiring diagram, with junction boxes, combines the qualities of the first two types. From the electrical panel, several cables go to distribution boxes, and from them to a group or individual devices in the apartment.

You can’t get hung up on any one type of wiring. For example, if you need to connect a powerful consumer of electricity, then the “star” type is used, if a group of low-power ones, then a loop.

Before you need to study where other engineering systems lie, the material of walls, floors and ceilings; Is it possible to do without gating the walls? find out the power, quantity, location of devices. For example, if the ceilings are made of hollow core slabs, then they can be used as cable channels.

Thus, it depends on financial capabilities, the number and type of electrical installations, and their location. Only after receiving this information can you understand what kind of electrical wiring diagram is required in the apartment and begin designing.

Sequencing

First you need to take a drawing of the apartment or make it yourself to scale with the location of windows and doors. Then place on the plan all energy consumers by room, indicate their power, based on this. It can be:

lighting;
socket;
a group of rooms and a corridor;
group of bathrooms;
If the apartment has an electric stove, then there is a separate group for it.

Depending on the number of rooms and loads, the number of groups will be determined. Thus, kitchen and hallway sockets may be separated into two different groups. This is necessary in order to minimize wire costs and facilitate further electrical network maintenance and repairs.

Each group must be connected through a residual current device (RCD) (usually called a circuit breaker). For the lighting group, a 16 A automatic machine is provided, for the socket group it is 25-32 A, and for the electric stove - 40-63 A.

After the position of all electrical wiring devices has been determined from the diagram, the number of wires and their cross-section are calculated.

The wiring diagram in the apartment must be drawn up in several copies, since during the work unforeseen points appear that will need to be noted on the diagram. In addition to the schematic diagram, an editing room is needed for the direct performers. Electricians work on it and make changes.

The installation diagram with all changes after completion of the work becomes as-built. This is the diagram that needs to be requested from the previous owner of the apartment.

What does it indicate?

The diagram must indicate all the dimensions of the apartment’s premises, the distances between various electrical devices. This will allow you to accurately calculate the amount of materials needed and reduce installation time. It is better to draw different groups in different colors; the diagram becomes more readable. In addition, it is necessary to show where which sockets (single, double), switches (one, two, three-key) will be located. The diagram will look something like this.

In addition, the diagram is accompanied by a list of materials and devices that need to be installed. Additionally, you need to take into account the consumables used during the installation process, such as plastic clamps, blocks, dowels, electrical tape, alabaster for attaching socket boxes to the wall. To determine the exact amount of cable required, you will have to take measurements with a tape measure and take into account the height of the ceilings.

When choosing a cable, it is better to choose a copper type VVG; compared to aluminum, it has higher conductivity and excellent flexibility, making installation easier. In apartments, a two- or three-core cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 is usually laid for sockets, and the lighting connection is made with a 1.5 mm2 cable. From the floor electrical panel to the apartment one, wiring is carried out with a 3-5-core cable with a cross-section of 6 mm2; for powerful appliances such as an electric stove, a boiler, a cable with a cross-section of 4 mm2 is used so as not to overheat.

Laying in the floor and ceiling

If you intend to make a concrete floor screed, you need to take advantage of this, run the electrical wiring along the floor in a corrugated area, and then just fill it with concrete. The result will be savings in materials and a reduction in the amount of work. With a suspended or suspended ceiling, the consumption of materials can also be reduced, the design and work can be simplified.

The cable is simply attached to the ceiling from the outside. If you allow external installation, you can significantly reduce the work time through the use of cable channels. At the same time, the most dusty work – gating – is eliminated. Accordingly, all this should be reflected in the design and materials.

Typically, single-phase electrical wiring is used in the apartment. If the apartment is large, with high electricity consumption, then a three-phase power supply may be required. The difference is small. There will be a three-phase meter in the floor panel.

Three phases will be supplied to the apartment distribution board, and then everything will be the same as in the single-phase version. When installing in distribution boxes, the main thing is to do everything correctly, not to mix up the phases, so that the device does not receive 380 V instead of 220 V. If there is no experience in such work or electrical engineering education, it would be correct to invite a specialist.