Heating system in the apartment diagram. Do-it-yourself heating wiring for a private house

The heating system assumes that heat loss is minimized and heat transfer remains maximum. You also need to take into account the amount of materials consumed, the boiler model and the type of batteries when designing the system. To carry out such a project yourself, it is not necessary to have the appropriate training; it is enough to know some rules, following which you will be able to successfully prepare and install heating in a private house with your own hands.

Before you buy materials and prepare to work, first decide what type of heating system you will use, select a suitable boiler and radiators for it. Afterwards, you need to draw up a project and only then proceed to purchasing materials and installation.

IMPORTANT! This article discusses a water heating system, which includes a boiler, pipes and radiators. This design is the simplest, most reliable and less expensive to operate. The system operates like this: water is heated in a boiler, flows through pipes into radiators, and the latter releases the resulting heat into the room. The cooled liquid flows through the pipes (return) back into the boiler, and the process is repeated.

Installation diagrams for a heating system in a private house

In practice, two types of systems are used - diagrams (or types of pipe layout), namely:

single-pipe;
two-pipe.

Each of them has its own advantages, disadvantages and is used in different cases.

Single pipe system

This type of wiring is cheaper and simpler. The system is built in the form of a ring - all batteries are connected in series with each other, and hot water moves from one radiator to another, then goes back into the boiler.

As can be seen in the figure, all batteries are connected in series, and the coolant passes through each of them.

This heating scheme is very economical in its implementation, it is easy to install and design. But it has one significant drawback. It is so significant that many refuse such wiring and prefer the more expensive and complex one - two-pipe. The problem is that As the coolant moves, it will gradually cool down. Until the last battery, the water will flow slightly warm. If you increase the boiler power, the first radiator will heat the air too much. This uneven heat distribution forces us to abandon a simple and cheap single-pipe system.

You can try to get out of a difficult situation by increasing the number of sections of the last radiator, but this is not always effective. This suggests the conclusion that single-pipe wiring can be used in the case when the number of batteries connected in series is no more than three.

Some people get out of the situation in the following way: they connect a pump to the boiler, thereby forcing the water to move forcibly. The liquid does not have time to cool and passes through all the radiators, almost without losing temperature. But even in this case, you will face some inconveniences:

the pump costs money, which means the costs of installing the system increase;
electricity consumption increases as the pump runs on electricity;
if the electricity is turned off, there will be no pressure in the system, which means there will be no heat.

Conclusion. A single-pipe system is effective only for small houses with 1-2 rooms, where a small number of radiators are used. Despite its simplicity and reliability, it does not justify itself in country houses, where it is necessary to install more than three radiators in the entire living area.

Two-pipe system

Hot water is supplied through one pipeline, and cooled water through another. This ensures uniform heat distribution across all batteries.

Such heating distribution in a private house will be much more efficient and better than a single-pipe one. Although it is more expensive to make and more difficult to install, it allows you to distribute heat evenly across all batteries, which will help create comfortable conditions. Unlike the single-pipe system, in this installation a pipe with hot water is supplied under each radiator, and the cooled liquid is discharged through the return line into the boiler. Since the coolant is supplied to all batteries at once, the latter heat up equally.

This system is not much more complicated than the first; you will have to buy more materials, since pipes will have to be connected to each radiator.

A two-pipe system can operate according to two schemes:

collector;
ray.

The beam wiring option is older. In this option, the supply pipe is installed at the top of the house, after which pipes are laid out for each battery. Thanks to this design, the circuit received the name - beam.

The first scheme works as follows: in the attic it is necessary to install a collector (a special device consisting of many pipes), which distributes the coolant through the heating pipes. In the same place you need to install shut-off valves that will cut off the circuits. This design is quite convenient; it facilitates the repair of the entire line and even an individual radiator. Although the scheme is reliable, it has one significant drawback - complex installation with a large number of materials (shut-off valves, pipes, sensors, control devices). The collector layout of heating pipes is similar to the radial one, but more complex and efficient.

Unlike a one-pipe system, a two-pipe system does not require additional forced circulation of coolant. It shows high efficiency even without a pump.

Choosing equipment for heating a private house

In places where there are interruptions in the supply of the main type of fuel, it is recommended to install universal heating boilers.

There is a huge range of boilers on the market. There are even hybrid boilers that can operate, for example, on both gas and wood. So, the choice depends purely on your preferences and needs. Of course, boilers with a full range of automation and hybrids will be more expensive. The former will more than pay for themselves with their high efficiency, and the latter – with their versatility.

It is impossible to recommend a specific model, since different devices have different power. Choose the device that best suits your conditions, however, try to select a boiler so that its operation is not costly. If you use wood, it is better to choose a wood-burning model. If gas is supplied, then use the gas model.

We draw up a heating project

To install heating in a private house with your own hands, you will definitely need a project. It must be compiled in the following order:

First make a sketch of the house.
Then carry out zoning of the house and determine the degree of comfort of each room.
Calculate heat loss for all rooms separately.
Design the placement of batteries in each room.
Determine the number of sections required for each radiator.
Select heating scheme.
Calculate the boiler power, the required amount of materials (meterage of pipes, number of tees, valves, automation, etc.).

There shouldn’t be any problems with the house sketch, so let’s move straight to the comfort zones.

IMPORTANT! It is extremely difficult to do the entire amount of work yourself, so we recommend that you find out the prices for installing heating in a private house from various companies. This way, it will be easier for you to figure out what work can be outsourced to the experts, and what work is better to do yourself.

Zoning the premises

Proper distribution of heat will not only allow you to feel comfortable at home, but can also save you some money. So, what temperature is best to maintain in different rooms:

Correctly plan the thermal zones of your home for comfortable living in it.

The overall comfort temperature should be between 20-24 degrees.
For the bedroom, it is better to slightly raise the temperature and set it within 22-25 degrees.
For the bathroom, toilet, guest room and rooms where you are most of the time, the temperature range will be from 21 to 24 degrees.
For the dining room, kitchen, office, it is better to reduce the temperature to 18-22 degrees.
For the hallway, garage and passage area, you can set a limit of 12 degrees.

Calculating heat loss

The calculation can be simplified without taking into account the internal heat exchange between rooms. When making calculations, it is important to determine the number of external walls and corners; this is where the greatest losses occur. The amount of loss can be calculated by taking the data from the table below and multiplying it by the thickness of the wall.

By thermal resistance

Wall material and thickness	Rt
Brick wall 3 bricks thick (79 cm)	0,592
Brick wall 2.5 bricks thick (67 cm)	0,502
Brick wall 2 bricks thick (54 cm)	0,405
Brick wall 1 brick thick (25 cm)	0,187
Log house diameter 25 cm	0,55
Log house with diameter 20 cm	0,44
Log house made of timber 20 cm thick	0,806
Log house made of timber 10 cm thick	0,353
Frame wall (board+mineral wool+board) 20 cm	0,703
Foam concrete wall 20 cm	0,476
Foam concrete wall 30 cm	0,709
Plaster 2-3 cm	0,035
Ceiling (attic) floor	1,43
Wooden floors	1,85
Double wooden doors	0,21

According to the given heat losses

Specific heat loss of building enclosure elements (per 1 m2 along the internal contour of the walls) depending on the average temperature of the coldest week of the year

Fencing characteristics	Outside temperature, °C	Heat loss, W/m 2
Double glazed window	-24	117
	-26	126
	-28	131
	-30	135
Solid wooden doors (double)	-24	204
	-26	219
	-28	228
	-30	234
Attic floor	-24	30
	-26	33
	-28	34
	-30	35
Wood floors above basement	-24	22
	-26	25
	-28	26
	-30	26

IMPORTANT! A large amount of heat escapes through the windows.

Batteries

The choice of radiators is very important. Not only the durability of the heating system depends on this, but also the heat levels in your home. There are only 4 types of batteries:

cast iron;
steel;
aluminum;
bimetallic.

Bimetallic radiators consist of strong steel pipes and an aluminum jacket that transfers heat well.

Cast iron radiators give off heat best and last the longest. But they are difficult to install due to their significant weight. Bimetallic batteries are an excellent choice.. They are durable, give off heat well, but are more expensive than other options. It is better not to install aluminum and steel ones, since aluminum is short-lived, and steel will not be able to cope with heating the rooms in severe frost.

To correctly calculate the number of radiator sections per room, you need to multiply the number of heat losses by 1.2 (safety factor) and divide by the thermal power of the battery section. The value should be rounded up.

On a note! Alternative option. In order not to bother yourself with calculations, you can calculate the number of sections like this: for every 2 sq. m of room (with a ceiling height of up to 3 m) one section is needed. If heat loss is high, then take a couple of sections in reserve.

The principle of operation of the "screen" for the battery.

It is better to install batteries under a window. This move will somewhat reduce heat loss through the window opening. But in this case, the battery will transfer some of its heat to the wall, which you do not need at all. That's why We recommend installing a “screen” on the wall where the radiator is installed. It is usually made of foil and serves as a heat reflector. The warm flow is reflected and returned to the room, heating the air, not the wall.

After all the calculations, you need to choose the heating scheme, which was already mentioned earlier. Our choice remains unchanged - we recommend a two-pipe one.

Boiler power calculation

It is worth noting that It is better to take the power parameter with a small margin, so you will protect yourself in severe frost. The heating device will calmly cope with an emergency situation.

To calculate the power, you need to add up the power of all radiators (possibly other devices that will be powered by the boiler), multiply this value by 1.4 (this is a coefficient that takes into account heat loss through ventilation). The resulting figure must be divided by the power utilization factor and the boiler efficiency. Then select the boiler from the table that best matches the resulting value.

Latest pieces

When all the calculations are made, you need to measure all the distances in order to buy the required number of pipes and tees. Take everything with a small margin. Buy a boiler, coordinate all the necessary documents, purchase radiators and other consumables.

We install heating in a private house

One of the options for a properly planned boiler room.

The heating system is installed in several stages. First of all, you need to arrange a room for the boiler. It should be well ventilated, treated with fire-resistant materials. The boiler itself is not mounted close to the wall, but with a slight indentation. You also need to retreat from the ceiling, floor and other walls. Hang the device so that it is easy to reach.

After installing the boiler, proceed to connecting the pump (if needed) or installing the manifold (if provided). Also secure all control and measuring instruments near the boiler. Only after the above actions should we proceed to the arrangement of main pipelines. Here you cannot do without a hammer drill, since to lay the line you will have to punch holes in the walls.

Important! The slope must be at least 5 mm per meter - it is very important to maintain the slope. The absence of this will negatively affect the operation of the entire system as a whole, so take this issue responsibly.

Schematic representation of the correct slope in the heating system. Water flows by gravity into the radiators and by gravity is sent back to the boiler.

Radiators are installed last. Before installation, you need to mark the wall, then drill holes where the brackets are installed. When marking, keep the following distances: from the floor to the bottom side of the battery - at least 10 cm, from the wall to the back wall - at least 2 cm, and from the window sill - at least 10 cm. It is advisable to install valves at all inputs and outputs of the batteries, which will simplify replacement or repair.

The heating system piping of a private home can be done with your own hands or with the help of specialists. In any case, a heating network project is first prepared, an important point in the development of which is determining the method of pipe routing.

The main elements of any heating network are: a heat-generating device, a main pipeline, heat-dissipating, compensation devices and a device that ensures coolant circulation. Heating pipelines can have different configurations and degrees of technical equipment.

Heating systems are classified according to three parameters:

number of pipe circuits of the main pipeline,
type of compensation device,
type of circulation.

One- and two-pipe systems

The heating system can be:

In the first case, the coolant moves along one pipe circuit, alternately passes through all the heat-releasing devices, arriving at each increasingly cooler. The part of the main pipe after the last heat exchanger is called the return pipe or return pipe and serves to drain the cold working medium back to the heat generator.

In a two-pipe system, the energy carrier circulates through two parallel circuits: supply and return. The first circuit supplies hot coolant to each heat-releasing device, and the second circuit collects the cooled working medium from the heat exchangers and takes it to the heating device.

Types of circulation in heating systems

Heating of the premises occurs only if the coolant moves along the circuit. Circulation can be either natural or forced.

In systems with natural circulation, the energy carrier heated by a heating device is accelerated to give it an impulse sufficient to pass through the entire thermal circuit. To do this, immediately after the heat generator, an accelerating manifold is installed - a vertical section of pipe, when descending from which the working medium picks up speed under the influence of gravity.

Forced circulation is created by special circulation pumps installed on the return pipe. Such a system ensures the movement of coolant along a circuit of any length and complexity, but is completely dependent on the availability of electricity and stops working when the power supply is turned off.

Types of compensation devices

Depending on the method of compensating for pressure differences of the working medium in the circuit, there are two types of heating systems: open and closed.

In an open system, the pressure is controlled by a compensation tank, partially or completely open. When the pressure in the heating network increases, the excess working medium enters the tank, and when it decreases, it goes back into the pipeline.

Note! In an open-type heating network, the working medium is in contact with the surrounding air, therefore a compensation tank is installed only on water heating systems.

In a closed system, the expansion tank is sealed and has two autonomous compartments separated by a membrane. The operating principle is the same, but the coolant, entering the first compartment, does not come into contact with the environment, but interacts with the valve. When there is excess pressure, the working medium presses on the membrane, compressing the air in the second compartment; when the pressure returns to normal, the air in the second compartment is rarefied and squeezes the coolant back into the pipeline.

The entire process of creating a water heating system in a private house consists of certain stages, the successive implementation of which will lead to solving the task at hand - making water heating with your own hands.

What remains to be done? We are studying...

Types of water heating systems

Today, water heating systems “own” up to 90 percent of the “heated area” of private houses. The rest of the territory uses stove, electric, and air heating.

Water heating systems

radiator;
"warm floor" system;
baseboard heating.

Water heating radiators are a common element of the interior of most houses and apartments. Their “family” includes: steel, cast iron, bimetallic and aluminum radiators.

The advantage of such devices is excellent heat transfer, but the disadvantage is the increased “demandingness” of such radiators on the quality and type of coolant.

Radiator water heating in a private house, in a garage or in a country house can be done with one’s own hands by a person who is more or less adapted to technical work and who wants to learn something new.

To learn about what types of water heating radiators you should choose for a private home, read the article: “Which heating radiators are better?”

Water-based “warm floor” system

A water floor can be considered as an addition to a radiator heating system or as an alternative to it.

The advantages of such a system include a large heat transfer area - in fact, the entire floor can be called a large radiator, which also heats the air in the room correctly: a warm zone is below, and a cooler zone above.

This allows you to reduce the operating temperature of the coolant, which for a warm water floor should not exceed 55 ° C, and set the thermal power per square meter within the required limits by changing the pitch of laying the heating pipe. The main inconveniences of such a floor are the relative complexity of installation (creating a concrete screed, “nesting” a pipe in a wooden floor) and the impossibility of creating such a system after a completed renovation - it is necessary either to raise the floor (more precisely, its level) or to go deeper. But what to do if the door frames and doors are already installed, and there is a concrete floor slab below or...?

How to properly “organize” heating from below, read the article “Do-it-yourself water-heated floors: calculation and installation.”

And now heating systems... baseboard!

What is it and what is it eaten with? An “exotic” baseboard heating system is something between a radiator heating system and a heated floor, or rather similar to both.

Heating equipment is installed around the perimeter of the room at the baseboard level, which allows you to evenly heat the walls and floor, and, accordingly, the air in the room.

The advantages are the absence of bulky radiators in the interior, and the color range of plinth systems allows you to choose them to suit any style of your home.

Having considered the undeniable advantages and obvious disadvantages of various heating systems, you need to decide on the type of water heating system in your home. As mentioned above, when work on doorways and floors is completed, it may be impractical to make a heated floor, but installing radiators or using baseboard heating systems can be easy and convenient. Construction is in full swing - also think about warm water floors.

What should be included in a water heating system?

The water heating scheme for a private house, also known as liquid, involves the use of a liquid coolant in the system, which “delivers” heat from the heating boiler to the radiators or heated floor, constantly circulating in the system.

In other words, the coolant “runs in circles,” heating up in the boiler and giving off its heat in heating devices.

To ensure the operation of such a system, a lot of other equipment is used, which makes the operation of the system more flexible (differentiated heating of different zones), safe (protection against overpressure and coolant leakage from the system), and automates the process of controlling the heating of the house.

The block diagram of a water heating system looks like this:

Water heating systems can be:

with natural coolant circulation;
with forced circulation of coolant.

Systems with natural coolant circulation

In a system with natural coolant circulation, the driving force is the phenomenon of the difference in density of heated and cold liquid (coolant) in the supply and return pipes, respectively.

As the coolant in the boiler heats up, its density decreases and it is forced up the vertical pipe, displaced by the denser cold liquid returning through the return pipe.

In this case, the coolant passes from the boiler along a vertical riser to an open-type expansion tank, spreads further along horizontal risers over heating radiators and returns to the boiler through the return pipe.

In such systems, important parameters are: the diameter of the pipes (especially the central supply riser), as well as their slope.

The advantage of such a system is its energy independence (when using a simple solid fuel boiler), and the list of disadvantages includes the lack of ability to regulate the heat conditions of various rooms, increased fuel consumption, and the need to use large-diameter metal pipes.

Systems with forced circulation of coolant

Such a system is also supplemented by a circulation pump, which “forcibly” creates a driving force applied to the coolant.

Here, too, the coolant, heating up in the boiler, moves through the pipes under the action of the pump, heading to the heating devices.

The advantages of such a system include the possibility of separate and flexible (differentiated) control of the power of each radiator or heated floor using manual or automatic valves, which allows for more economical use of energy for boiler operation. In such a system, plastic pipes can be used, which significantly reduces the cost of materials and facilitates installation work, and the plastic pipes themselves can be “hidden” in the walls.

The only disadvantage of such a system is its “energy dependence” on the presence of electricity in the house to ensure the operation of the pump. In some cases, a combined heating system is used.

Installation options for water heating systems

If an unprepared person considers all the existing options for installing water heating systems, especially with natural circulation, he may “drown” in an abundance of information.

In this article, we will focus on the most commonly used water heating installation scheme, which can be repeated by a person without experience in such work.

The most effective today is considered to be water heating in a private house, made using a two-pipe water heating installation system, in which the “hot” liquid is supplied through one (supply) pipe, and the “cold” liquid is discharged through the other (return).

This scheme allows you to connect heating devices (radiators, underfloor heating circuits) in parallel with independent manual or automatic (the thermostat is “nad” here, however) regulation of the flow of liquid passing through them. In such heating systems, it is convenient to use special devices - a collector, to which all “consumers” of heat are connected.

For more information about installation systems for heating water systems, read the article “Heating diagram for a private house”

Boiler options for a private home

This entire installed multi-meter set of pipes and radiators will remain useless without the “heart” of the heating system - the boiler. This is one of (if not the only) expensive heating system item.

The choice of boiler is made according to the fuel available in the region where your home is located: natural gas, electricity, solid fuel, etc. The most cost-effective and convenient to maintain is a boiler running on natural gas.

More information about gas boilers in the article: “How to choose AGV heating?” And also read: “Double-circuit gas heating boilers: what should you know?”

The electric one is also simple and automated, but it “eats” your money very quickly when paying for electricity, which is more expensive than natural gas.

There is enough information about electric boilers in the article: “Electric boiler: what do you need to know?

There is no access to the gas main, there is a weak “input” of the power line into the house - then there is only one way out! That is, two... Or a solid fuel boiler (wood, coal, briquettes, pellets)! Or a liquid fuel (diesel) boiler! We warn you right away, think about the fuel storage room and the time spent next to the solid fuel boiler when refueling in the absence of an automatic fuel supply system.

You can read more about solid fuel boilers in the article: Solid fuel heating boilers."

Calculation of water heating also includes determining the required boiler power, calculating the hydraulic resistance of the system to select the power of the circulation pump, designing a chimney, installing water heating with an expansion tank and a safety group.

Long gone are the days when only a stove could heat a private house. The lack of hot water in sufficient quantities and the need to light the stove and keep it burning did little to facilitate life outside the city. That is why many sought to move to comfortable multi-storey buildings, where heating and hot water supply were centralized.

Today, a lot has changed - the abundance and range of modern heating equipment allows you to do heating in the house yourself, even without the involvement of specialists. Now, on the contrary, the priority is to live in country houses, since hot water is available all year round, and heating can be turned on at any time, without waiting for a decision from utility services.

In total, there are 3 main energy sources - gas, solid fuel and electricity. We will talk about each of them, as well as how to properly wire the boiler and ensure heat supply to different components, in this article.

You will not be able to purchase the entire heating system in any store. You can select individual elements and assemble them into a system, you can purchase materials and make the boiler and piping entirely yourself. Regardless of which path you decide to go, you must first decide on the following parameters:

what type of fuel is planned to be used;
which fuel is more economically feasible.

What home heating systems are there?

The most famous means of heating since time immemorial has been the Russian stove. Among the main disadvantages of such structures today are their large size, which is not always convenient, and uneven heating of the air in the room. It’s very hot near the stove, warm two meters away, cold in the next room. Modern fireplaces, although they have changed over time, generally act as an analogue of a stove and therefore can be used exclusively as an auxiliary heat source.

The most popular and effective is a water heating system, where heated coolant circulates through pipes and thereby heats the premises.

Air heating, based on the operation of air heat collectors, is considered no less effective, but practically unknown.

Electric heating can be called a relatively new type, which works by converting electricity into thermal energy without using any coolant.

Types of boilers

The main task when organizing heating with your own hands is to create an effective system, mostly automatic, with minimal human participation in its operation. Based on the availability of the type of fuel and the appropriateness of its choice, you should purchase a specific type of boiler.

The main classification of boilers depends on the type of fuel:

gas;
electric;
solid fuel;
combined.

Modern industrial boilers are economical, relatively silent and easy to operate. The main disadvantage of such equipment is its energy dependence, since at the heart of each there is a fan that forces air into the chamber or ensures the movement of the coolant.

The exception applies only to those boilers where it is used. This pump belongs to the category of emergency equipment and runs on a battery. In the absence of electricity, the pump ensures the movement of coolant through the pipes, preventing them from freezing and subsequent rupture.

Heating scheme for a private house

Gas

No matter how often the price of gas is indexed in our country, it still remains the cheapest type of fuel.

Modern gas boilers are silent, easy to operate, and differ in the number of circuits:

single-circuit - designed only for heating the house

double-circuit - for heating and hot water supply.

Electric

The safest type of equipment. Capable of heating a room of any size (power 4-300 kW). The only disadvantage of such equipment is the cost of fuel. Electricity is traditionally the most expensive type of heating compared to gas and solid fuel.

Key benefits include the following:

large power range of boilers capable of heating up to 350 sq.m. premises on different levels and consisting of several rooms;
there is no need to organize a chimney or exhaust ventilation - heating occurs by converting electricity into heat, so no combustion products are released;
environmentally friendly equipment that does not emit any pollutants into the atmosphere;
compact size and the ability to install in any room without restrictions on square footage and distance;
there is no need to obtain permits to put equipment into operation.

Even a small house can be heated with electricity only if 3 phases are supplied and the network voltage is absolutely stable.

Boilers also differ in the number of circuits:

single-circuit - for heating only;
double-circuit - for heating and water heating.

Solid fuel

This is an improved "hello" from the past, modernized to such an extent that it can be left for a week and the temperature in the house will be comfortable. All solid fuel boilers are based on the Kolpakov principle, when the boiler is first heated, and then the temperature is maintained at a certain level to ensure stability of heating of the coolant.

Such boilers are characterized by a fairly high efficiency, but at the same time they require regular (at least 1-2 times a week) cleaning of combustion products, installation of a chimney, organization of exhaust ventilation and the presence of a separate room.

Advantages of solid fuel equipment:

a wide range of fuels (firewood, coal, pellets, braces, waste from the woodworking and agricultural industries, etc.);
high efficiency, in some cases reaching 92%;
possibility of process automation for long-term combustion units.

To ensure that the heating season does not cause difficulties, it is necessary to prepare in advance a certain amount of fuel sufficient to heat a private home for 2-3 months.

Combined

This type of equipment allows you to rationalize heating costs and ensure constant operation of the boiler, depending on the availability of a particular fuel.

The fundamental difference lies in the combination of solid fuel with other sources - electricity, liquid fuel or gas. Depending on the pair, electric, solid fuel and universal combo boilers are distinguished. The choice depends on what fuel is available in the region.

The transition between alternative sources is carried out by changing burners, which is quite difficult and does not always work out the first time.

Burners are always purchased separately!

When choosing a boiler for a private home, you should understand that this is only a small part of the entire heating system. certainly very important, on which its functioning and maintaining heat in the house will depend, but also a lot depends on the boiler piping, on the organization of the heating and hot water supply system.

Types of heating systems

Depending on what coolant circulates in the system, the following types of heating are practiced:

water, where ordinary water acts as the coolant (in some cases, antifreeze can be added);
air - coolant - air heated to a certain temperature;
steam - pipes heat steam;
electrical - electrical appliances (heating elements, infrared emitters, etc.) are placed around the perimeter;
combined - organizing heating in such a way that the source is not only the coolant, but also other options;
"warm floor" system.

Each of the listed methods has certain characteristics, advantages and disadvantages in relation to each other.

This is the simplest type of heating for a private home, which is easy to do with your own hands. There are no special requirements for operating the system; the main task is to correctly calculate the number of batteries and select the appropriate boiler power.

How to calculate power

There is a universal formula for calculating power:

1 kW of power = 10 m 2 heated area

However, it only works in ideal, one might say, laboratory conditions, which are very far from reality. When determining the parameter, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of a particular house - the year of construction, what building materials are used, the presence of thermal insulation, the type of windows and doors, etc.

So, for example, if a house was built more than 30 years ago, but is insulated, doors and windows are replaced with modern sealed structures, the power should be increased by 1.5 times, that is, by 10 sq.m. take 1.5 kW of area. If the building was built recently, but is not properly insulated, the doors and windows are wooden and draughty, the power should be increased by 2 times.

Power calculation factors

2 or more windows on the north side - 1.3;
2 or more windows on the south, east and southeast sides - 1.1;
2 or more windows on the west side - 1.2.

When organizing water heating, purified water acts as a coolant, which does not need to be drained at the end of the heating season. This is a closed system where water circulates under the influence of a pump or by gravity.

Forced coolant circulation

In order to ensure the movement of heated water through the pipes, centrifugal force is needed. As a rule, a circulation pump is used for these purposes, but an ordinary centrifugal pump, only of low power, is quite suitable.

The main task of the pump is to supply cooled water to the boiler to heat it and distribute the already heated coolant throughout the system. Since we are talking about a vicious circle, a constant volume of water circulates through the pipes.

Installation of a circulation pump in the heating system of a private house

The use of pumping equipment, although it makes the system energy-dependent, completely eliminates the need for human participation in the operation of the boiler. The temperature sensor monitors the heating limit, the pump moves water progressively from the boiler to the pipes and back. If we are talking about an electric or gas boiler, all participation comes down to only one thing - set a comfortable temperature and forget about the boiler for the whole season.

In order to ensure the operation of the boiler in the absence of electricity, you can purchase a 12-volt circulation pump powered by a battery.

Coolant circulation by gravity

Today, such a system is extremely rare and only in one-story houses. Here, the coolant moves through the system by gravity, when water of different temperatures moves under the influence of differences in specific gravity.

A prerequisite for proper water circulation in a gravity system is the installation of pipes at a slight angle - up to 150.

DIY installation of a water heating system

In order to make the house comfortable and warm, you should correctly calculate the number of radiators through which the coolant will circulate. Please note that all boilers must be equipped with an exhaust ventilation system and a chimney. The only exception applies to an electric boiler.

How to calculate the required number of radiators

The most correct way is to calculate the area of the heated room (in each room separately). According to SNiP, each square meter requires 100 W of heat. Find out the area of the room and multiply by the required amount of heat. So, for example, for a room of 20 sq.m. you will need 2000 W of heat (20 x 100), which corresponds to 2 kW.

Now we determine the number of radiators by the number of sections or units. Each manufacturer indicates the heat transfer of one section of a radiator or monolithic product. Divide the resulting heat volume by the heat transfer coefficient and get the number of sections that you convert into radiators, or immediately the number of radiators.

Single-pipe, where only hot water leaves the boiler

In this case, the coolant moves from the first to the last radiator, gradually losing heat. When choosing such a system, you should keep in mind that in the farthest room the battery will be almost cold.

It is difficult to adjust the temperature of radiators with such a system, since by shutting off one radiator, you stop the flow of coolant to all subsequent ones.

Two-pipe - supply of hot water from the boiler and return of water to the boiler (return).

This is the most optimal system for heating a private house, where 2 pipes are connected in parallel to each device - primary and return. In this case, the temperature of all radiators in all rooms will be approximately the same. You can increase or decrease the temperature in each room as needed.

This method of wiring is also called radial, when a pipe with direct supply is supplied from the boiler to each device and discharged with a cold one.

The collector in such a heating system performs the task of storing coolant.

This is a universal system that is suitable for organizing heating in any room, while it is possible to make hidden wiring to each device separately.

Depending on the chosen wiring system, the number of pipes and the total cost are determined. Single-pipe wiring is the cheapest option.

After the number of radiators has been calculated and the system has been selected, the pipes should be installed.

Previously, metal pipes were used for this purpose. Today, such a solution is not profitable due to cost and susceptibility to corrosion, so you should choose polypropylene.

Polypropylene pipes in the heating system

Pipes are laid in all rooms that will be heated, moving from one room to another. The pipes are connected to each other with a special soldering iron for plastic pipes.

You can assemble a water heating system for a private house with your own hands, but this will require precise calculations and a boiler piping diagram. The main drawback of such a system is the need for regular prevention. And please note that if you use antifreeze, it must be changed every 5 years.

A fairly popular method of heating residential and office premises, based on the principle of gravity and forced ventilation. The gravitational system involves the movement of air at a temperature difference due to its natural circulation. Different temperatures mean different air densities, which causes the movement of warm and cold layers.

When heating with air, a heater is installed in the room or ventilation ducts are installed through which warm air enters. Each such heat source can be installed anywhere in the room - on the wall, ceiling or floor. This has no effect on the principle of convection.

There are 2 main types of air heating:

local (localized);
central.

Localized

This method is suitable for heating only one room in the room. The heat source can be:

air heaters;
heat guns;
thermal curtains.

The optimal heat supply is a heater that distributes heat several meters around. The power of such equipment is 1-1.2 kW per hour.

A heat gun is a more powerful equipment, which also instantly dries the air in the room. Used only for heating warehouse and industrial premises where people stay for a short time. Power 2-2.5 kW per hour.

A thermal curtain is an analogue of an air conditioner that supplies hot air to a point. Most often, a curtain is placed at the entrance to simultaneously prevent cold air from entering the room. Power 1.5-2 kW per hour.

Central heating

This is an example of a centralized hot air supply, which operates on the principle:

direct-flow or partial recirculation;
complete circulation of hot air.

Most often, such a system is chosen in rooms with suspended or suspended ceilings, where ventilation ducts can be installed above them. Through such ventilation holes, hot air enters the room and circulates in it.

It is not advisable to install ventilation ducts in the walls, since part of it will be needed to mask the ventilation shafts.

The cost of air heating is more expensive both in terms of installation and the cost of equipment. The source of coolant supply is a gas or electric boiler.

Advantages:

filtering the air entering the room;
fresh air due to the fact that the intake is carried out from the street;
possibility of organizing drip irrigation and air ionization.

Flaws:

such a system can only be created in a house under construction (with the exception of a water gun and a heat curtain);
expensive installation.

Electric heating

The most affordable way to heat any room, since electricity is everywhere.

The operating principle is based on the operation of an electric convector that converts electrical energy into heat. Modern models are equipped with a large number of functions that completely eliminate the need for human participation in monitoring work.

It could be:

temperature controller depending on the time of day;
regulator for increasing the temperature at night and decreasing it during the day (day-night mode);
maintaining system pressure and minimum temperature in the event of absence of people for a long time;
compliance with the regime even during a short-term power outage, etc.

Advantages:

very simple and easy installation that anyone can do;
extremely simple operation;
mobility of the system, when convectors can be moved from room to room if necessary.

Flaws:

the high cost of energy is the most expensive of all existing heating methods.

When choosing an electric heating method, there must be 3 phases and a stable voltage in the network.

Steam heating

In this case, the operating principle is completely identical to the water one, with the only difference that instead of water, steam circulates in the pipe system. Installation of pipes, selection of boiler power and organization of piping are completely identical to the water heating system.

For steam heating, special boilers are used that generate hot steam. It is mandatory to have a “Through the Gauntlet” filter system, which purifies water from all kinds of impurities before it is converted into a vapor state.

There is only one advantage of a steam heating system - savings, since heating occurs almost instantly. The efficiency is 95%.

There are incomparably more disadvantages:

peculiarity of the equipment - it is extremely difficult to find a steam boiler on the open market;
high installation cost, which includes the installation of special pipes and the presence of a filter system;
dangerous operation because the steam temperature exceeds 100 degrees.

Warm floor

The huge advantage of this heating system is the large heat-transferring surface area. This is an ideal option for common areas - kitchen, bathroom, hallway, as well as in the living room or children's room.

It is optimal to lay a heated floor under ceramic tiles - in this case it acts as an excellent conductor. Laminate and parquet are much less often used for heated floors, since when the temperature rises, warping of the material and its subsequent dismantling are possible.

A prerequisite for installing a heated floor is a foil layer. It is neither an insulator nor a reflector, as is commonly believed. Foil is used to distribute heat evenly across the floor surface. If you do not use such a layer, the tactile sensations of the floor will resemble a zebra - the stripe is warm, the stripe is cold.

Warm floors can be water-based, where hot water circulates through pipes, or electric - a system of wires where electrical energy is converted into heat.

Water heated floor

A branch of a water heating system in the form of small-diameter pipes laid on a flat floor surface. A prerequisite is the use of a substrate that will prevent heat loss from contact with the floor.

The difficulty of installing a water heated floor lies in the need to lay pipes and connect them correctly to the existing heating system.

Electric heated floor

A type of heating that is elementary in installation and operation. The only difficulty that may arise is preliminary preparation of the surface for laying wires or mats using a concrete screed, and laying the floor covering on top of the heated floor

Even simpler is to use electric mats on the existing surface. Such mats are absolutely safe to use and are easy to set up. To avoid mechanical damage, it is recommended to use an overhead electric floor under a carpet or rug.

In most cases, a heated floor is an auxiliary element of the heating system in the house.

How to choose heating for your home

The most correct thing when choosing a heating system and, accordingly, a boiler is to focus on the available type of fuel. If there is no gas pipeline in some area yet, but its installation is already underway, it is advisable to use combined boilers - solid fuel and gas. Where gas is not available and is not planned, but electricity is expensive, you can connect an electric boiler.

Each system has both its advantages and disadvantages. Even if you heat the house yourself, be sure to consult with the designers regarding the type and method. Any of the selected heating systems is quite expensive so that errors in calculations can be made.

For example, when developing a fireplace, stove or solid fuel boiler with your own hands, there is a risk of carbon dioxide concentration in the room, which will lead to accidents.

The best option would be to purchase ready-made certified equipment, and you can do the installation and wiring yourself.

In order to accurately understand which type of heating to prefer, you should take into account the cost of each type of fuel and its consumption per unit of time.

As of March 2016, fuel prices are as follows:

1 liter of diesel - $0.5. The cost of 1 kWh of energy is $0.05.
1 m 3 of natural gas for individuals - $0.05. The cost of 1 kW/h is $0.006.
1 liter of bottled gas - $0.3. The cost of 1 kW/h is $0.020.
1 kW/h of electricity for an individual - $0.03.
1 kg of coal averages $0.3. The cost of 1 kW/h is $0.05.

If you need to create or modernize heating in a private home, then it is better to first spend an hour or two studying the issue, collecting expert opinions, and in particular, reading this material - consider the most common situations and time-tested solutions.

Knowledge of the issue is the key to success. Even if the heating in the house will not be done independently, then it is better for the owner to speak with visiting installers in their language. It will be easier to control the correctness and budget of the process; you will be able to purchase materials yourself, which means significant savings. Therefore, learning how a heating system is made is beneficial.

How does heating work?

For an ordinary residential building, in the vast majority of cases, a water system with forced circulation of liquid is used. The coolant moves through the pipes under the influence of the pump, heating the radiators, which heat the air. Energy is generated in the boiler.

Everything that does not correspond to this is called “rarity”, and experts also call it “wildness” - it will be so inferior in consumer qualities for residents of a house with a usual area of 70 - 500 square meters.

What does it consist of?

A number of components and assemblies are always used in heating, which are worth learning about in more detail.

A boiler is a heat generator that burns fuel and heats water (coolant).
Circulation pump - can not only be installed separately, but is also part of an automated boiler, like some other elements. The coolant moves through the pipes.
Pipes - modern plastic and metal-plastic products are used, selected by diameter.
Radiators - transfer energy to the air.
The expansion tank is a mandatory element; it maintains stable pressure during thermal expansion of water. Protects the system from accidents.
Safety group - can be part of the boiler or separately, includes a safety valve, automatic air vent, pressure gauge. Must be installed in any closed system.
The cleaning filter is a small required element.

This is the minimum of a conventional system. If this is installed correctly, for which fittings and taps are used, then the heating will begin to warm the house.

Additional system elements

Ball valves – two operating modes “open-close”.
Balancing valves - similar to ordinary taps - fine tuning of the system.
Three-way valves are automatic flow regulators.
Thermal heads are devices that control valves depending on temperature and manual settings.
Mayevsky taps are manual air vents for releasing air.

What to drown with

First of all, the owners are concerned with the question of how to heat the house. Each locality has its own priorities.

Many homes are now heated with natural gas from mains. It is a cheap and convenient type of fuel. If there is a gas pipe, then there is nothing to think about, you need to connect and install a gas boiler.
But you can also often find heating with wood in solid fuel boilers. It's cheap in most areas. But it's not convenient. To simplify the combustion process, the system is supplemented with a buffer tank, or, worse, with complex devices that are not of the best quality - long-burning boilers.
Coal is displacing firewood in some coal-producing regions where it is cheap.
Pellets are “automated firewood”, more convenient, but expensive.
Electricity is slowly replacing firewood, as it is very convenient, and at night tariffs it is tolerable in price. But at a daily rate it is too expensive.

It is advisable to thermally insulate the floor and organize underfloor heating.

After these measures, if they are carried out properly, the house will be warm...

We tie the boiler

Automated boilers, as a rule, contain in their housing both a pump and a safety group, and sometimes an expansion tank. All their piping consists of installing shut-off valves.

For a solid fuel boiler, a pump, an expansion tank, a safety group, temperature control are installed, and automation and control units are also possible.

In complex systems, all this is supplemented by a hydraulic arrow (or a primary ring circuit) with additional pumps on each branch, and it is also possible to install a buffer tank and a DHW boiler.

In the simplest version, the solid fuel boiler needs to be properly tied -

Elements that occur in complex systems

Old systems are not used

It was mentioned that in the modern concept, the coolant should move under the influence of a pump. Everything that is gravity-fed is an anachronism, not practical, not functional, and twice as expensive.

Also, according to modern ideas, the heating system should be two-pipe, and a single-pipe one is expensive both to create and to operate, bulky and does not provide... Its price is increased due to the large diameter of the pipes and fittings, and the ring diagram creates both installation difficulties and difficulty in ensuring the same temperature radiators.

Choose a scheme - one of three

How to combine heating with design

Nowadays, more and more people are trying to remove not only the pipes under the floor, but also the radiators themselves. They install in-floor convectors, which, although more expensive, do not clutter up the interior. The presence of heating with them will be reminded by a decorative grille under the window sills, under the entrance doors...

An intermediate option is more practical in operation - hide the pipes under the floor, leave radiators on the walls with bottom connections - the pipes come out of the floor under the radiators.

In this case, the wiring under the floor can be according to any scheme, but the cheapest and most practical is a dead-end one with branches of thinner pipes from the main line. Under the floor, it is allowed to install compression fittings on metal-plastic pipes. Often the connection of radiators is combined with the installation of heated floors in the same space.

Select pipes and radiators

The cheapest option and easy to do yourself is to install a system of polypropylene pipes... But I can't recommend it. He is the most unreliable. This is due to the impossibility of ensuring standard connection quality and nominal pipe clearance in welded joints.

One can argue for a long time about the selection of radiators... but any that can be found in a store will be suitable for a private home.
Radiators must be connected and installed according to the rules...

Installation

Now all that’s left to do is to put together all the elements that were designed. By the way, of course it is better to use a ready-made heating project, if available...

And if this is known, then the heating system should work properly... Remaining