Preface

What could be better for your health than taking a steam bath? Probably spend this unforgettable time in your own bathhouse, built with your own hands. For this purpose, the use of natural material will be important. Let's pay attention to how to build a bathhouse from foam blocks.

Required tools and materials

Sand Vapor barrier film Armature

DIY eco-friendly sauna

The most environmentally friendly material used in any construction is wood. But not everyone can afford to build. Therefore, to reduce the cost of construction, we can recommend, which is quite popular among natural materials. After all, it contains only sand, lime, cement, which are natural elements.

Among the main qualities of this material are thermal insulation properties. Thanks to its cellular structure, the material retains heat in the room and prevents walls from freezing. A bathhouse made from foam blocks with your own hands is an ideal option. Such a structure does not emit any harmful substances into the atmosphere.

Foundation for a bathhouse - important nuances

To build a cinder block bathhouse, the first step is to decide on what support the house will stand. Since such a structure will not be too heavy, a columnar foundation can be used. With this option, the walls rest on pillars that stand separately from each other. This option is the cheapest compared to other types of foundation.

Before choosing this foundation for a bathhouse, you need to find out what type of soil is at the construction site. Such a basis cannot be used everywhere. In order for a bathhouse made of foam blocks, built with your own hands, to stand firmly, soil made of fine gravel, fine-grained sand, clay and loam is most suitable. But if the soil is weak-bearing, then it is better to consider a different type of foundation, for example, a strip foundation.

Installing foundation pillars

For support pillars, it will be necessary to dig holes to a depth below the soil freezing level (2 m). First of all, this is done in corners and places where walls intersect. It is recommended to place the pillars along the wall at a distance of 150–200 cm from each other. The weight of the structure will be distributed among all the pillars. Thanks to this, the load on each individual pillar will be reduced.

It is recommended to make the diameter of the post within 30–60 cm. You can dig holes either manually or using professional special drills. They are designed for drilling wells for similar types of foundations. They have expanding blades, thanks to which you can cut off the edges at the bottom of the hole - you get a well with an expansion at the bottom.

Before constructing the pillars, it is necessary to make a cushion of gravel and sand in the dug holes. It is recommended to fill it to 20–30 cm. Therefore, it is better to make a well with an appropriate margin.

The pillars themselves are formed from brick or monolithic reinforced concrete. The second method is the simplest and most convenient to use. After all, it is enough to make a frame from reinforcement and fill it with concrete. To prevent soil from pouring into the hole during pouring and hardening of the concrete solution, it will be necessary to install a spacer or formwork. To do this, you must make the well 30–40 cm wider. We recommend making the formwork 40–50 cm above ground level. This is necessary in order to obtain a gap between the future floor and the ground. This will reduce the impact of moisture on the walls.

After the formwork is installed, we form a frame from reinforcement. This will require rods 10–15 mm in diameter. The tying can be done with a special thick wire every 20–30 cm along the entire length of the rods. If a columnar foundation with a grillage is used (a monolithic reinforced concrete beam lying on all pillars), it is better to make the reinforcement bars 20 cm higher. This is required in order to tie together the pillar reinforcement and grillage.

For a monolithic reinforced concrete floor, the length of the reinforcement will have to be made even greater. Here it will be necessary to take into account the thickness of the belt, increasing the length of the rods by it. The concrete solution must be poured gradually, 30 cm at a time. Be sure to use a hand vibrator or at least an ordinary metal rod to compact the solution. This is necessary so that no air remains inside the mixture, which can reduce the strength of concrete.

Increasing foundation strength

After the solution has hardened and the pillars have gained strength, you can begin to form a reinforced concrete monolithic grillage belt (to ensure the stability and longitudinal rigidity of the foundation). To create a grillage, you will have to mount horizontal formwork. The size of the belt itself should be no less than 40x40 cm. We recommend making a gap between the ground and the grillage of at least 10 cm. This will protect the reinforced belt from winter heaving of the soil.

It is better to use 15 mm reinforcement in the grillage. In addition to horizontal rods, it is imperative to lay vertical ones - for connection with the reinforcement frame of the floor. The rods should protrude above the grillage by 30 cm. It is better to place them every 150 cm. Once all this is done, you can begin installing the formwork for the bathhouse floor, creating a floor reinforcement frame and pouring concrete.

Strong and reliable bath walls

To build a bathhouse from foam blocks, you need to properly raise its walls. To do this, just follow the step-by-step instructions.

Not everyone wants to install wooden baths: there are a lot of hassles with them, both during construction and during operation. Although the use of non-wooden materials is not “feng shui”, foam block baths behave much better in this regard. The main thing when building with your own hands is to choose the right project, and then do everything according to technology. And there will be no problems.

Foam blocks are called foam concrete or cellular lightweight concrete. This material is far from new, but with the development of technology it is becoming increasingly widespread: new materials make it possible to eliminate the disadvantages that are inherent in them (hygroscopicity). Foam blocks are three different materials created using similar technology:


Foam concrete of any type is good because it has a relatively low price. In addition, the building is constructed quickly, since the blocks are large in size and weigh a little more than ten kilograms. One person can easily handle carrying and installation. It is not surprising that more and more often bathhouses are made of foam blocks: you can build them with your own hands. All you need is a project that you can implement on your own with a little modification. Below are ready-made drawings of baths of different sizes and formats.

Let’s immediately talk about what should be present in the layout of a good bathhouse. Traditionally, all drawings of baths include a steam room, a sink and a relaxation room. The distribution of space can be very different: a large steam room and a small sink, or, on the contrary, a spacious relaxation room and small functional rooms. Choose what you like best and what seems more correct: everyone has a different idea of ​​how everything should be organized. And don’t be afraid to move the partitions in the way that is most convenient for you; then you’ll put a foundation under them and everything will be fine.

What is certain is that when using the bathhouse in winter, the entrance should not be directly to the rest room, but through the vestibule. If it is not in the bathhouse design that you like, you can either fence it off - if the space and configuration allows, or attach it outside.

Pay attention to the position of the doors. They should be located so as to take up as little space as possible, because the passages cannot be exploited in any way. The stove is selected according to the volume of the steam room, but take it with a reserve, especially if it will be heated from another room. The heat will be partially used to heat this room, which means more power is needed.

Bathhouse project 5 by 5.5 from foam blocks


Regarding the vestibule, we have already written, if you plan to steam in the winter, either fence off part of the rest room, or build a vestibule outside. Installing a partition with such a layout will be problematic: you will have to move the doors to another corner. But this is a good option. In the photo below you will see the implementation of this project. The bathhouse is built from gas blocks, it is planned.


Project of a 6 by 6 bathhouse made of foam blocks

A well-thought-out layout of a compact and functional bathhouse is shown in the photo below. The project is drawn taking into account the thickness of the walls and partitions; there are “clean” dimensions of the rooms. The entrance doors and windows are not marked on the plan; the vestibule will be built outside.


Bathhouse project made of aerated blocks

The premises turned out to have the following areas:

  • steam room - 5.3 m2;
  • sink - 7 m2;
  • bathroom - 1.8 m2;
  • locker room - 1.7 m2;
  • rest room - 11.2 m2;

The stove is heated from the rest room, the steam room has two-tier rooms for lying on, and there is a small shelf for sitting.


Layout of a bathhouse made of 6 by 3 foam blocks (several projects)


Layout options for a 6 by 3 bath made of gas blocks

These are far from the only options for planning a 6 by 3 bath. As you can see, they differ in the size of the steam room and shower, as well as their location relative to each other. In one version, a stove is also installed, which is heated from the steam room, in the other two - from the relaxation room.

Advantages and disadvantages of foam block baths

Foam concrete blocks are good because buildings made from them are very warm and light. A 30 cm thick aerated concrete wall has thermal conductivity characteristics similar to a 1.7 m thick brick wall. This means that when building a house, it does not need additional insulation. When building baths (if the wall is sufficiently thick), only the steam room requires insulation, and then from the inside.


But the following point must be taken into account: these are the characteristics of walls laid on a thin layer (1 mm) of special glue. If you use ordinary cement-sand mortar (the thickness of the joints is then 10-12 mm), the performance will be much worse. This is because the solution in this pair conducts heat many times better, that is, it “flows” through it.

It is also worth considering that only blocks of ideal geometry with deviations in size of no more than 1 mm can be placed on glue. You need to look for these. Otherwise, a 1 mm layer of glue is clearly not enough to correct these deviations. So they put aerated concrete on a thick layer of mortar, not glue (glue is much more expensive, but due to low consumption the masonry is more economical), and then insulated.

Foam blocks are also good because they are easy to work with. Although quite large in size, they have a low weight - 10-14 kg. So one person can easily handle the masonry. They are cut with a hand saw, but it is better to look for a blade using foam concrete rather than metal - it will be easier to work. If necessary, they can be grooved quickly and easily, even with a hand tool.


One tip: look for blocks that have a tongue and groove design. This will make it easier to achieve tight connections, and there is an additional guarantee that the seams will not glow (this happens with a lack of experience).

The relatively low density of aerated concrete is both an advantage and a disadvantage. The disadvantage is that nailing anything to such walls is problematic. For fastening, special dowels are used, which have an increased surface of the spacer elements. Advantage: the design is lightweight, which allows you to make less massive foundations. Less massive foundations mean less costs, because this cycle can account for up to 50% of the cost of the entire construction.

The second serious disadvantage of aerated concrete is its high hygroscopicity. Therefore, when building bathhouses from aerated concrete with your own hands, you need to make hydro- and vapor barriers both inside and outside.


Among porous concretes, gas blocks absorb moisture more than others, so from this point of view they are not the best choice for building baths. But it is precisely for its production that more expensive equipment is used - the peculiarities of the technology. And as a result, the blocks have better geometry. And gas blocks are often placed on glue rather than on mortar, since the geometry of the material allows this. So from the point of view of thermal conductivity, this material is preferable. And problems with hygroscopicity are solved by organizing a ventilated facade and/or.

Sauna walls made of aerated blocks

For central Russia, a block thickness of 25-30 cm is sufficient; for regions located further north, 35 cm or more may be needed. But the question here is more about density. In this material, the lower the density, the warmer the wall: more air is contained in the pores, and there is less concrete through which heat escapes. At the same time, a larger amount of air and a smaller amount of concrete leads to the fact that the strength of such a wall is slightly lower. But you need to take into account that changes in thermal conductivity and changes in density are not very large, but they exist.

For low-rise construction, gas blocks D400 or D500 are most often used. The recommended thickness of external walls in residential premises is 300 mm; the same material is used for partitions, but their thickness is 150-200 mm.


Another feature of the construction of bathhouse walls from foam blocks is the need for reinforcement in every third or fourth row. This measure makes the structure more durable and monolithic.


For reinforcement, two ribbed rods with a diameter of 12 mm are used. For them, grooves are cut out in the laid blocks. This can be done with a grinder, a jigsaw or a manual wall chaser for aerated concrete.


This is a manual wall chaser - one of the tools for working with foam blocks

The distance from the edge of the block to the groove is at least 5 cm, the depth is at least 12 mm, so that the rod does not protrude above the surface. The groove is partially filled with mortar, the reinforcement is laid, a layer of glue is applied on top and the next block is placed.


Insulation

If the bathhouse constantly maintains a positive temperature, then insulation from the outside is desirable: the costs of maintaining that “+” are lower. If the bathhouse is heated only periodically, then there is no point in external insulation. It’s already warm in the summer, but in the winter it will still be minus in an unheated room.

In an unheated bathhouse you need to have good internal thermal insulation. Then it will be possible to heat the room without touching the walls. The insulation layers are discussed in more detail below, since without a vapor barrier they do not work as they should.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier of walls

The problem of hygroscopicity of gas blocks during the construction of baths is solved quite simply today: there are cement-based impregnations with polymer additives, which significantly reduce the amount of moisture absorbed by the material (such as “). They can be used to coat the finished building inside and outside (in two layers). This will protect against water in its liquid state. But it is better to make a ventilated facade on the outside: it is more reliable in the sense that it protects from precipitation and makes it possible to ventilate the wall, drying out the steam present in it.


But in the most problematic rooms - the steam room and washing room - additional protection from steam will be needed. Vapor barrier from the inside will be done using a special film. Moreover, for a steam room they often use foil on a cardboard or paper base (Izospan FB), for a washing room you can get by with a regular vapor barrier.

Steam room wall insulation

You can do it differently: without impregnation. It costs a lot, and the consumption is decent - at least 7 liters per square meter. To reduce consumption, you can first putty the wall (with breathable putty) and then treat it. But in this situation, labor intensity increases.

If you provide good ventilation, there will be no problems without impregnation. For example, a cake of insulation and waterproofing in a steam room made of aerated concrete can be made like this (from the wall, inward):


If you ensure normal ventilation of the facade from the outside, and do not close the pores tightly, such insulation should work normally, and it will dry out quite well. It is only important to make the vapor barrier from the inside (from the steam room) reliable. For this film, the films are laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, and at the joints (two strips are obtained) they are glued with double-sided tape.

There is a second approach to thermal insulation of walls. It is based on preventing moisture from reaching the outer wall. In this case, it is recommended to build a frame inside that will completely cut off the walls from moist air.

To do this, a vapor barrier is placed on the walls, a sheathing is placed on it, then a rough wall, another sheathing, between the beams of which the insulation is laid out. It is covered with another layer of vapor barrier film, on top of which the sheathing and finishing (lining) are already placed. This frame “eats” about 20 cm around the perimeter. A luxury that not everyone can afford.

In both cases, for effective ventilation of the insulation, closed on all sides with films, it is necessary to make two ventilation holes in each wall, closed with doors. The holes are not through. They do not go into the steam room (washing room), but end in a layer of insulation. In order not to reduce the temperature, the doors are closed while vaping. They are opened to dry after the procedures, because steam will still get inside, albeit in smaller quantities.

With any solution, the bottom of the wall 10-15 centimeters is decorated with ceramic tiles - they protect well from splashes, covering the wettest part. And higher up (but with an overlap in height onto the tile) comes the sheathing.

For waterproofing in the steam room, there is another option - gluing foam glass slabs. This material is quite expensive, but its waterproofing is excellent and there are no leaks. there are: European, Belarusian, Chinese. The most expensive and highest quality is European, the cheapest and lowest quality is Chinese. They “put” it on a special glue, there is no hassle with gluing: everything is easy and simple. To achieve the required degree of waterproofing, a layer of 50 mm is sufficient.

Washing room wall insulation

There is not much point in walling up such a pie in the sink: if the walls are finished with tiles laid with special glue, the problem is easier to solve. True, it still requires treatment: first, a layer of plaster is applied to close the pores of the aerated concrete, and then a layer of thin-layer hydrophobic waterproofing (these are cement-based compounds).


It is only important to coat the walls well with liquid waterproofing, following all the manufacturer’s recommendations. This coating works simply: it penetrates the pores of the concrete. The polymers contained in it begin to crystallize, and the growing crystals prevent the passage of water. The amount of water absorbed becomes significantly smaller.

The same composition can be used to treat walls outside. But such impregnation costs a lot, and the consumption is high. Moreover, the facade still needs finishing in this case: the surface is not very attractive.


Interior wall decoration

A lot of questions arise with baths made of aerated concrete. Including interior decoration. We decided on the steam room - it definitely requires lining. In the sink, it is more advisable to lay tiles on the walls.

What remains is mainly a rest room, sometimes a vestibule. Many people would like to have wooden walls. Since the humidity will still be high, you can attach a vapor barrier film to the walls. The sheathing will already go on top, and the finishing board will go to it.


If the bathhouse is well thought out, then you can completely do without a vapor barrier: aerated concrete both absorbs vapors and releases them. The main thing is to provide him with this opportunity: to organize air movement along the walls. This is done using lathing, which provides a gap of 2-3 cm between the finishing material and the wall. As soon as the lathing is filled vertically, air circulates from bottom to top without problems. So the lining is packed horizontally.

Roof

Quite a lot of questions arise when building a bathhouse from aerated concrete with your own hands, related to the construction of the roof. After all, it will not be possible to reliably attach a complex structure to such blocks.

Therefore, a reinforced belt is installed over the top row of blocks: a frame is knitted from four bars of reinforcement, which is filled with concrete mortar. For longitudinal reinforcement, a ribbed rod 8-14 mm in diameter is laid, transverse posts are made from a smooth rod 6-8 mm. The installation step of the transverse posts is 100-150 mm. The height of the armored belt is 200-300 mm, depending on the type of roofing material used, snow and wind loads in the region.


You can make an armored belt in several ways:

  • Along the perimeter of the wall (width at least 200-300 mm) install removable formwork made of boards, fiberboard, OSB, etc. The lower part of the boards is fastened with self-tapping screws to the blocks, then the reinforcement is laid and then the edges at the top are tightened with transverse bars (so that the mortar does not expand the formwork). The solution is poured into this structure. Just note that the reinforcement must be filled with concrete on all sides with a layer of at least 5 cm thick.
  • There are U-shaped blocks. The top row is laid out from them. Then a layer of insulation (which is not afraid of moisture) is laid along the inner edge, then associated fittings are installed. Fill everything with concrete mortar. In this case, the blocks play the role of permanent formwork.
  • Almost the same design can be made using thin wall blocks. Along the edges of the wall, blocks 50-60 mm thick are installed on glue. The block directed inside the room is laid with a layer of thermal insulation, reinforcement is laid, and concrete is poured.

Concrete for the armored belt is used no lower than M 200, pouring is done at a time. To ensure uniformity and increase strength, excess air must be removed from the solution. If you have any left after pouring the foundation, you can use it. If not, take the reinforcement pin and bayonet the solution well. If the weather is hot, the concrete is covered with film. Work on installing the rafter system can begin no earlier than 4 days later.

Today, many owners of suburban areas prefer to build bathhouses not from expensive timber or logs, but from cheaper foam blocks. This material has simply wonderful performance characteristics and is also quite easy to install.

The feasibility of using foam blocks

Baths made from this material are actually usually very inexpensive. In addition, foam blocks have almost all the same advantages as wood: they allow air to pass through (“breathe”), are very easy to cut, and are not too heavy. Their advantage, compared to timber and logs, is that they do not burn at all and do not rot. The disadvantages of walls made of this material include the fact that it is capable of absorbing moisture, while gradually collapsing. Therefore, projects for bathhouses made of foam blocks must be developed taking into account the characteristics of this material, in particular its hygroscopicity.

According to SNiP standards, it is prohibited to build baths from foamed cement. However, these rules were invented quite a long time ago. Since then, a huge number of materials with truly unique properties have appeared on the market. Foam concrete also belongs to them. In addition, SNiP standards were developed mainly in relation to public baths. Of course, in this case the rules must be very strict. A small country bathhouse made of foam blocks can become a very convenient and quite durable structure. But of course, only if all rules and construction technologies are observed.

Advantages of a foam block bath

In addition to being cheap and having a rather pleasant microclimate, the advantages of such structures include environmental safety. When heated, foam blocks do not emit any harmful substances. In addition, they retain heat very well, meaning you will have to heat the bathhouse no more than once on a wash day. Since the foam block is not flammable, you do not have to comply with any special standards when installing the heater.

And of course, the undoubted advantage of this material is its ease of installation. Assembling a bathhouse from a log or timber is a rather labor-intensive task and at the same time technologically complex. Not everyone has experience in constructing such structures in our time. Probably any owner of a suburban area can lay out block walls.

Bathhouse designs made from foam blocks can be anything, that is, the owners of the site have the opportunity to choose the layout of this structure at their discretion. The material is easy to cut even with a regular hacksaw.

Disadvantages of foam block baths

The disadvantages of a bathhouse made of foam blocks are, first of all, dampness and destruction of the walls; in particular, saturating the blocks with water is dangerous in the winter. In a heated bath, vapors easily penetrate into the porous material. After the steam room cools, the water freezes and, expanding, simply breaks the concrete. Therefore, when building a bathhouse from foam blocks, special measures should be taken to waterproof the walls. In addition, the building will also have to be insulated. In this case, the walls will take longer to cool, and therefore, even if water gets into the material, it may have time to dry before freezing. In addition, much less condensation collects on insulated walls.

Of course, all these tricks: waterproofing, insulation, ventilation - will cost the owner of the bathhouse a pretty penny. Therefore, structures for this purpose made of foam blocks are usually built only in steppe regions, that is, where it is difficult to obtain wood or it is very expensive. In forested areas of the country, it may be more advisable to build a wooden bathhouse. Most likely, it will not cost much more than paving stones.

Bathhouse made of foam blocks: price

The cost of such a structure will depend, of course, primarily on the layout and size. A wall foam block 60x30x20 costs about 2,500 rubles per cubic meter. A small 3x4 meters with one partition and a ceiling height of 2 m will take a little more than 6 m 3. That is, the construction of the actual walls will cost about 16-20 thousand rubles. In this case, you will need about 5 m 3 of mineral wool. It will cost about another 8 thousand rubles. About 2000 rubles will be spent on the glue solution. Thus, the walls of a small bathhouse made of foam blocks, at a rough estimate, will cost about 30 thousand rubles. Of course, to this amount you will need to add the cost of the foundation, lumber for the floor, ceiling and roof, waterproofing and lining.

A large 6x4 bathhouse made of foam block will, of course, cost more. It has recently become very fashionable to build attics on such structures. This is, of course, very convenient and allows you to save space on the site, but of course, it will additionally increase the cost of the structure. The walls and partitions of a standard 6x4 m bath will require about 11 m 3 blocks.

Construction of foundation and walls

Building a bathhouse from foam blocks is a simple procedure. Such a structure is erected in approximately the same way as a brick one. The difference is that the seams in the masonry of foam blocks are very thin, and special glue is used as a solution to hold the blocks together. When building even a small bathhouse from this material, it is advisable to reinforce the walls. To do this, in every fourth row, metal rods are placed in gutters cut out with a grinder. An armored belt must also be placed on top of the masonry.

It is recommended to make the foundation for a bathhouse made of foam blocks strip and quite powerful. All foam materials are fragile. And therefore, even with small movements of the soil, walls made of them can crack. For the same reason, blocks should be laid as evenly as possible, using piers, plumb lines and a level.

from foam block

To prevent the walls from being saturated with water from below from the ground, it is worth installing special floors in such a structure. They need to be made concrete and slightly inclined towards the center. In this case, a receiving tray and a plastic drain are installed in the middle of the bath. The pipes should be laid underground below the freezing level and extended to the septic tank.

In order to extend the service life of concrete floors, they should be covered with tiled rough tiles. The base itself should be treated with penetrating waterproofing before laying it. In the future, special wooden gratings are usually installed on top of the tiles. After taking water procedures, they can be taken outside and dried.

Foundation waterproofing

This operation must be performed. In this case, you will get a durable bathhouse made of foam blocks. Reviews from owners about such buildings are not bad, but only if they are waterproofed according to all the rules. For the foundation of a bathhouse, both vertical and horizontal waterproofing are usually used. When installing the tape at the bottom of the pit, be sure to pour a sufficiently thick layer of sand. After the foundation concrete has gained sufficient strength, its top is glued with two layers of roofing felt.

The walls of the base of the bathhouse must be protected from moisture both outside and inside. In this case, you can also use roofing felt. Penetrating agents are also considered a very good solution for waterproofing the foundation of a bathhouse. Sometimes the base walls are coated with bitumen mastic in two layers.

Waterproofing walls

To protect the enclosing structures of the bathhouse from moisture, it is best to use foil vapor barriers. You can take special isospan or penofol. Today on the market there are foil materials designed specifically for baths. The waterproofing is secured to the wall with beams. The joints should be additionally nailed and taped on top with metallized tape. The lining is subsequently attached to the beams.

The ceiling of the bathhouse is usually made of boards. You can protect it from moisture by using impregnating waterproofing designed specifically for wood. A bathhouse with a foam block attic is very comfortable. However, when choosing just such a project, you should keep in mind that in this case, most likely, the roof will also have to be waterproofed from the inside. In the attics of baths, the microclimate is usually quite humid.

Bath insulation

Next, let's see how to use foam blocks. A structure made of this material can be insulated from the cold using both expanded polystyrene and mineral wool. The latter material is considered more preferable. The fact is that polystyrene foam does not allow air to pass through very well. When using it, the walls of the bathhouse will not “breathe”. Insulation should be carried out exclusively from the outside. The fact is that when sheathing from the inside, the so-called one moves inside the walls, and they begin to become damp.

How is a bathhouse made of foam blocks insulated? Reviews from owners about such structures are only good if this operation is carried out correctly. Foam block wall insulation technology usually includes the following steps:

  1. The walls are covered with timber lathing.
  2. Insulation is installed between its elements. Cotton wool can be installed simply by surprise. Expanded polystyrene should be additionally secured with mushroom dowels.
  3. The frame with insulation is covered with waterproofing material.
  4. External cladding is being installed. It can be a lining, a block house, etc. Foam block baths covered with façade vinyl siding that imitates stone look very nice.

You can also cover the walls of the bathhouse with very dense mineral wool with additional fastenings - “fungi”, and then finish it using decorative plaster.

How to arrange ventilation in a bathhouse

Thus, you now know how to build a bathhouse from foam blocks, as well as insulate and waterproof it. Next, let's figure out how to make ventilation in this structure. The foam block bathhouse must be ventilated. Ventilation in the bathhouse is arranged as follows:

  1. In the immediate vicinity of the stove, at a height of no more than 30 cm from the floor, a supply hole is made in the wall. Sometimes it is also done in the foundation of a bathhouse. In the latter case, a hole (with a valve) should be made in the floor.
  2. An exhaust hole is hollowed out in the opposite wall at the top. A valve is installed on it. If the opposite wall does not face the street, the exhaust hole should be made in the same wall as the supply hole, but on top and in the opposite corner. In the latter case, an exhaust fan should be used to ensure good air flow.

Bathhouse made of foam blocks: reviews from owners

The owners of suburban areas have a very good opinion about buildings of this type. The owners of bathhouses made of foam blocks note, first of all, that they retain heat very well. In addition, such buildings do not require any special care: treatment with anti-rot compounds, caulking, etc.

Of course, foam block baths have earned good reviews due to their low cost. Almost anyone can build such a structure on their site. If you line the inside of a foam block bathhouse with linden clapboard, it will smell like a real wooden one. The same applies to the benefits of taking water procedures. In addition, in a bathhouse made of foam blocks, judging by the reviews of the owners, the smell of dampness never appears. The outside of such a bathhouse can be covered with a block house, and then it will look quite traditional.

As you can see, if all the required technologies are strictly followed, a very good bathhouse can be built from foam blocks. Reviews from owners about such structures are mostly good. But only if ventilation is provided in the bathhouse, and its walls are well insulated and waterproofed.

The emergence of modern materials, which include foam blocks, and their increasing popularity have largely begun to supplant the classic “recipes” for building a bathhouse.

Many people refuse to use wood, citing the fact that the use of bricks and building blocks guarantees a significantly longer service life of the building. And the construction of a block bathhouse takes significantly less time.

And since this material is in great demand, we devote our attention to the issue, in which we consider all stages of construction and draw your attention to the main nuances. Here we will consider building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, that is, on your own.

Which foam concrete to choose for a bath?

The construction of block baths is still a fairly new branch in construction, so there are many points of view, the abundance of which can cause confusion. We will try to outline all the features, starting with the fact that foam concrete comes in different types.

Classically, all foam blocks are divided into 4 categories (classes, brands):

  1. D300-D500(belong to the category of blocks with the lowest thermal conductivity, have a particularly porous structure, which affects their strength; suitable only as a thermal insulation layer);
  2. D600-800(have an optimal ratio of strength and thermal insulation, well suited for building a bathhouse, including as a material for load-bearing walls);
  3. D900-1200(they have high strength characteristics, but require additional high-quality thermal insulation);
  4. D1300-1600(they are rare, they are not produced in large volumes, they belong to the category of special orders, the strength for the construction of a bathhouse is excessive, because it is more suitable for multi-story construction).

On a note! New products on the market include foam blocks with the addition of new components: wood chips, foam balls, etc. These additives contribute to the appearance of additional properties of the blocks.

The main difference is the weight range, which increases as the block's strength increases.


Since the production of blocks is strictly regulated by state standards, the gradation of sizes is clearly established and is:

  • wall blocks for load-bearing (including external) walls: 200*300*600 mm;
  • partition blocks for partitions (including internal and interior): 100*300*600 mm.

Almost every region presents foam blocks from different manufacturers; choosing from all the variety is not easy.

Walls

As already mentioned, it is best to choose foam blocks of the D600-800 brand. Many experts agree that the first 2-3 rows need to be reinforced. The most prudent ones recommend reinforcement every 4-5 rows. Additionally, door and window openings require reinforcement. A metal mesh with a fine mesh is well suited as a reinforcing material.

And here is the opinion of another professional who has built dozens of buildings from foam blocks. You need to reinforce the rows under window and door openings and the rows above them. Reinforce not completely the rows, but specifically the places above the openings, since cracks formed there. No more reinforcement; the reinforcement in the foundation and armored belt is enough. Reinforce in U-shaped blocks.


IMPORTANT! Blocks should only be laid on edge, checking each layer using a vertical plumb line and a horizontal level (for beginners, choosing a laser level with maximum accuracy is preferable).

For the first row, a cement-sand mixture is used, subsequent rows must be secured with a special adhesive.

REFERENCE. The permissible thickness of joining seams should not exceed 5 mm. Too thick seams reduce the effectiveness of using foam blocks and there is a possibility of so-called “cold bridges” occurring.

Useful video

Watch a short video about laying foam block walls:

The mixture is applied using a special spatula, and each block should be tapped with a rubber hammer for a better fit.

How to properly insulate foam concrete baths?

The porous structure of foam blocks provides excellent thermal insulation properties of this material for construction.

Insulation on the outside is not required at all, but many resort to a small layer of insulation, because... combine this process with external decoration and surface waterproofing. One of the external insulation technologies is. Buildings built from foam concrete are not characterized by the most attractive appearance, so finishing work on them is not uncommon. Most of the thermal insulation work is carried out from the inside.

Foundation insulation

Many people miss this stage when building a bathhouse, which is wrong. It is the missing thermal insulation of the foundation that often causes rotting of the foundation and floors. This is easy to explain:

  • during winter operation of the bathhouse, temperature changes guarantee the formation of condensation (external cold and internal heat);
  • in the summer, the role of the cooling factor will be played by the coolness from the ground, the difference will also cause condensation.

In addition, an uninsulated foundation contributes to the formation of drafts that will cool the bathhouse. Even a sufficiently insulated floor may not prevent this.

is quite wide and does not require serious financial investments. Mineral wool, polystyrene foam or bulk materials (expanded clay, sawdust) are suitable.

First of all, it must be said that requires waterproofing, otherwise when wet it will lose all its beneficial properties. Besides, the use of mineral wool and polystyrene foam under the steam room should be limited(insulations suitable for steam rooms are presented). There is a possibility of exposure to high temperatures, which can lead to the release of harmful substances. It is recommended to avoid this.

REFERENCE. The use of polystyrene foam and penoplex requires a durable floor. If penoplex can be selected from among brands with an increased compression ratio, then the foam plastic must be guaranteed to be protected from the effects of external pressure.

Floor insulation

Since a block bathhouse requires a strip foundation, it is best to install ventilated floors. They will ensure the boards dry quickly, and this, in turn, will increase their service life.

Wall insulation

Ceiling insulation

One of the sources of heat loss is evaporation through the cracks of an uninsulated ceiling, because warm air always tends upward. And combination with a vapor barrier will allow you to not change the ceiling boards for a longer period of time.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse made of foam blocks: conclusions?

Indeed, it is quite possible to build a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, if you have certain skills and equipment.

An important role is played by the purchase of high-quality materials for construction - blocks from a trusted manufacturer. Remember that your own safety is not something you should skimp on.

After all, a bathhouse made of foam blocks is superior to brick and concrete bathhouses in terms of environmental friendliness, and is slightly inferior to wooden ones: . Features of insulation or baths may influence the choice of the final solution. They have a wide range of options, in favor of which clients often make their choice.

Where to order

If any of the proposed material raises doubts about the correctness of the decision to build it yourself, then it is better to farm it out.

Having a bathhouse at your dacha or in a country house is almost a prerequisite. The bathhouse is both comfort and general improvement of the body. In some cases, a bathhouse is the only opportunity to wash properly (for example, at the dacha). And, of course, a bathhouse is an indispensable component of a country holiday with barbecue. In general, you can’t go anywhere without a bathhouse.

However, building a bathhouse can cost a pretty penny. So much so that you don’t want any comfort or even mandatory washing. The solution is to build a bathhouse on your own. For example, it is quite possible to build a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands - such construction will be quite inexpensive, especially since foam blocks are a material that is quite affordable in price and, if handled correctly, the structure will be both high-quality and durable.

Foam blocks have a number of features that must be taken into account when planning to use this material for construction, especially if we are talking about building a room where there will be high humidity - a bathhouse is precisely this kind of room, where not only high humidity, but also temperature.

  • foam blocks have increased strength (compression resistance ranges from 3.5 MPa to 5 MPa - depending on the brand of foam blocks), so most brands of this material can be used in the construction of two- or even three-story structures;
  • foam blocks are a very light building material, their density, depending on the brand, ranges from 400-1600 kg/m3, and work with such material can be carried out without the use of special equipment, lifts, etc., even one person can lift and install the blocks, in addition, the lightness of foam blocks allows the use of lightweight foundations during construction and the construction of structures on almost any soil, except, perhaps, swampy soils;
  • the thermal insulation characteristics of foam blocks are almost the same as those of wood and three times better than those of red brick, which is very important for a structure such as a bathhouse, where it is necessary to maintain the temperature;
  • foam blocks are a porous material, which ensures their excellent soundproofing characteristics;
  • foam blocks are moisture-resistant and frost-resistant, which is very important in cold winters; this building material does not crack due to frost, and retains its performance qualities for many years;
  • foam blocks can be cut into pieces, grooved, sawed, and so on - they retain their strength.

A bathhouse is a relatively small structure, and foam blocks are a fairly light material, and therefore a bathhouse can be built on almost any soil (if you have a choice, then it is optimal to choose dense soils, but loose soils are also suitable), and an ordinary shallow one is required. The only requirement is for the levelness of the construction site: before starting the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to measure the angle of inclination of the site. But there is no need to level the entire site; the problem can be solved by local changes in the depth of the trench.

Considering that a bathhouse is a structure with high humidity, and this humidity spreads around, the construction site must be cleared not only of debris, but also of the fertile soil layer, as well as grass, leaves, tree branches, and so on - no organic matter should remain materials, since in conditions of high humidity they can rot, which inevitably leads to accelerated destruction of the foundation and even the walls of the building.

The foundation is the key to the strength of the entire building. The material can be as strong as you like, but if the foundation is defective, then nothing will help the structure. The foundation should not crack or warp, because the stability of the walls depends on this.
If the soil on the construction site is dense enough, then to build a bathhouse you can get by with a shallow strip foundation, but if the soil is loose, the foundation will have to be buried deeper, that is, the trench will be deeper.

Typically, the depth of the trench for a strip foundation ranges from 0.5-1 m with a width of about 0.3 m. When calculating the depth of the foundation, the laying of a sand-gravel cushion and various layers of insulation (for example, hydro- and vapor barrier) should be taken into account. The same applies to the width of the foundation - it depends on the width of the wall material, in this case - foam blocks. The width of the foundation is not equal to the width of the foam block, but should be slightly larger, since the installation of insulating materials will be required.

An unpleasant surprise for a novice builder may be heaving of the soil at the site chosen for construction, or the close occurrence of groundwater. It is recommended that before starting to build a bathhouse, contact an organization engaged in geodetic and geological surveys to check the depth of groundwater and the ability of the soil to heave. Otherwise, the building may turn out to be extremely fragile and will not withstand even two or three seasons.

You can do without expensive experts - just look at the neighboring buildings, if, of course, they were built quite a long time ago (at least several years), and check with their owners what type of foundation was used during construction. If there are cracks in the foundations, and if the masonry walls warp even a little, then it is better not to save money and to deepen the foundation for the bathhouse more. A heavily buried foundation, of course, will cost more, but the building will be much more reliable and will last much longer.

It is imperative to clarify the level of soil freezing - the foundation must be below the freezing point. In addition, construction in areas with cold climates requires thermal insulation of the foundation - and this must also be taken into account when calculating the size of the trench.

Sewerage for a bathhouse should be provided at the stage of arranging the foundation, that is, at the very first stage, during excavation work. A channel must be created in advance inside the building's contour, having such an inclination so that wastewater can flow by gravity outside the building. If the village has a centralized sewerage system, then this outlet can be connected to it. Otherwise, you need to either make a separate cesspool intended for wastewater from the bathhouse, or equip a well, or connect this drain to an existing autonomous sewer system.

The foundation for a bathhouse is created in six stages, each of which requires close attention and is important for the subsequent strength and durability of the building:

  • At the bottom of the prepared trench, a sand and gravel cushion about 0.3 m thick is created, when the mixture of sand and gravel is filled in, it is compacted with water; you can also immediately use wet sand when creating the cushion;
  • Formwork from boards is installed along the edges of the trench, and the thickness of the formwork should be as small as possible (<10 см, но не более 20 см), опалубка может быть как съёмной (при этом части опалубки скрепляются саморезами), так и несъемной;
  • in order for the foundation to be strong, it is reinforced with metal rods, the horizontal and vertical parts of the reinforcement are connected either by welding or with steel wire;
  • after preparing the reinforcement, a concrete mixture is prepared (crushed stone, sand and cement are mixed in a ratio of 5:3:1), liquid concrete is immediately poured into the trench, and after pouring, the concrete mass must be pierced with a metal rod to release the air trapped inside, or the concrete must be de-aired using deep vibrator;
  • the mixture hardens within three weeks or more (depending on the weather), it is recommended not to rely on heat and sun, but to immediately cover the foundation with waterproofing material; if the foundation is poured in the cold season, in addition to waterproofing, you also need to use insulation, which results in a three-layer structure: waterproofing/insulation/waterproofing;
  • after the concrete has completely hardened, the foundation is waterproofed, most often when building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, roofing felt is used as waterproofing - the material is inexpensive and quite reliable.

Laying walls when building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands is the simplest thing, taking a minimum of time and requiring minimal labor. Even one person can handle this, but it’s better, of course, when there are helpers.

The laying of foam blocks is carried out similarly to bricks, the only difference is the size of the foam blocks, which are significantly larger than those of bricks, so the laying is done much faster.

When laying walls made of foam blocks, the same tools are used as when laying brick: a trowel, a hammer-pick, a cord-moor, usually a building level, a jointer, a plumb line and a mortar shovel.

Before you start laying walls, you should check the foundation to see if it is level. If there are any errors, they must be eliminated. A special solution is used for this. If you had to eliminate foundation errors, then laying the walls should be postponed until the mortar has completely hardened.

When laying the first row of foam blocks, it is necessary to arrange high-quality waterproofing, since it is this row that will come into contact with the floor of the bathhouse during its operation, and, as a result, it will be affected by high humidity. In addition, it is the first row of walls that is closest to the ground, and, therefore, it is affected by soil moisture, especially during rains and in the cold season. Therefore, waterproofing material is laid under the first row of foam blocks. It is recommended to use roll-type waterproofing (for example, bikrost).

One more nuance when laying the first row of foam blocks: the masonry mortar should only be sand-cement; other mortars are not suitable for this masonry, but they can be used when laying the next rows of walls.

Laying begins from the corners and gradually moves towards the center, while ensuring that the blocks stand level.

For the construction of a steam room, M25 foam blocks are recommended. Laying should be done with the utmost care, trying to make the seams as thin as possible so that the foam blocks fit together as tightly as possible. All unevenness and mortar leaks must be removed immediately, otherwise you will have to spend a lot of effort later on correcting the masonry.

The second row of foam block masonry can be made with a shift of up to 50% - similar to brickwork. Here you can no longer use cement-sand mortar, but special glue. However, it should be borne in mind that it is recommended to use one type of glue for the entire masonry, and not change it from row to row.

After laying each row, be sure to check the quality of the masonry (horizontalness) using a building level. If irregularities are detected, even minimal ones, then you need to use a mallet - tap the protruding elements with it, installing them in the right place. The smoother the masonry, the more reliable the walls of the building will be. If it suddenly turns out that the unevenness does not disappear after tapping with a mallet, then you should use a grater.

To simplify masonry, construction experts recommend creating an order - just as is done when laying bricks. For ordering, a wooden strip or metal corner is used.

To make the walls as strong as possible and prevent them from cracking during operation, it is recommended to reinforce them with metal rods. To do this, holes are drilled in the foam blocks into which the solution is poured - this solution serves to protect the reinforcement from corrosion, then the reinforcement is simply pressed into the solution.

After the masonry is completed, the structure should stand for several days (preferably about a week) until the walls are completely dry. To prevent moisture from getting inside the building in the absence of a roof, the future bathhouse is covered with a film, and the film is used not only as a roof replacement, but also for waterproofing the walls, and should cover the entire structure.

Floors can be made in two versions: monolithic or prefabricated. When building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, it is recommended to use monolithic floors, as they have a number of positive features:

  • low cost;
  • high fire resistance;
  • strength and durability;
  • ease of installation;
  • ease of purchasing materials.

However, there are also disadvantages that must be taken into account when constructed from foam blocks:

  • It is not recommended to use “homemade” concrete, but rather purchase a factory-made mixture;
  • it is necessary to ensure the lifting of concrete to a great height and, as a result, it is necessary to rent a concrete pump;
  • it is necessary to install formwork over the entire area.

In addition, the formwork in this case must withstand more than the substantial weight of concrete and, therefore, it is necessary to use timber with a cross-section of at least 10×10 cm, and plywood panels with a width of at least 1.8 cm.

When installing floors, work is performed in the following order:

  • vertical supports are installed, and the distance between the supports should not be less than 1 m;
  • boards are installed on vertical supports;
  • on top of the already installed boards, those boards that are the main part of the formwork are laid;
  • the lower part of the formwork is covered with roofing felt or other roll-type waterproofing material;
  • fittings are installed;
  • concrete is poured.

When building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, you can make floors from hollow concrete slabs. True, to install them in place you will need to rent a crane, but all work is carried out quickly and as simply as possible. The plates are fastened together with a special solution.

Another option for floors is the use of foam concrete slabs. True, it is recommended to make floors of this type only in one-story buildings, despite their strength.

Interfloor ceilings can also be constructed from wooden beams, using monolithic or laminated veneer lumber. You can also use metal beams, however, this option is quite expensive.

Before you begin attaching the Mauerlat, it is necessary to make a reinforcing belt so that the foam concrete blocks do not fall relative to each other. The reinforcing belt allows all loads that appear during roof installation to be distributed evenly.

To create a reinforcing belt:

  • formwork is located around the perimeter of the building;
  • the frame is made using thin (about 10 mm) reinforcement;
  • Threaded studs with a diameter of 1.4 cm are installed in increments of no more than 1 m;
  • the blocks are filled with concrete grade M-200 (you need to purchase a factory mixture, and not prepare it yourself);
  • the concrete mixture should dry for about a week;
  • After the concrete mixture has dried, the formwork is removed.

Before attaching the Mauerlat, the wood must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardant impregnation, and also dried after treatment. In addition, it is recommended to treat the wood with a waterproofing material, and liquid materials are used for this (for example, bitumen or polymer waterproofing). If you have to use damp wood, you need to install an adjusting anchor nut to adjust the position of the material every three to five years until it dries completely.

To attach the Mauerlat:

  • holes are drilled along the length of the dowels into which fasteners are inserted;
  • the anchor is installed all the way;
  • the harpoon is inserted into the concrete, while the teeth are carefully pressed into the depth of the concrete.

This method of attaching the Mauerlat is considered the best. Its only disadvantages include its high cost: a set of an anchor and dowel with a harpoon costs more than 3,000 rubles, however, when it comes to the durability and reliability of the building, it is better to overpay a little.

The rafter system can be installed in two ways. To implement the first method, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

  • cuts are made in the rafters (1/3 of the length of the rafters);
  • rafters are secured with nails to metal corners (it is recommended to use exclusively galvanized nails and corners to reduce wood rotting);
  • metal corners are fixed end-to-end.

When implementing the second method, cuts in the rafters are not required. In this case, bars are used as support, and then, in the same way as in the first case, fastening is carried out. The second method can only be used if the rafters are short, since the length of the support beam cannot exceed a meter.

A prerequisite is to use only well-dried wood. In addition, it is recommended to use hardwood that is not prone to rotting and is resistant to aggressive biological environments. All rafters must also be checked for defects: rafters that are knotty, resinous or contain cavities are not recommended for use.

When building a bathhouse with your own hands from foam blocks, it is recommended to use a gable roof structure with a ridge in the center. In this case, the rafters are joined in the central part, at the ridge, using a tongue-and-groove system.

The roof slope is selected depending on the average annual precipitation, and both rain and snow are taken into account. If the climate is rainy and the winters are snowy, then a slope of about 50-60º is recommended. The optimal overlap for a roof overhang is about half a meter.

When the installation of the roof frame is completed, a sheathing of thin boards is made. Since the boards are thin, increased demands are placed on their quality: they must be uniform, without knots, resin or cavities. Small knots and nicks are allowed and can be cleaned.

The sheathing can be continuous if ondulin or roofing felt is used as a waterproofing material. In this case, the thickness of the boards must be at least 2 cm.

In addition to waterproofing, thermal insulation is also necessary. Mineral wool is the most popular thermal insulation material - the material is inexpensive and easy to install.

When building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, you should remember that the work does not end with the construction of the building box. High-quality thermal insulation and waterproofing are required. For walls, it is recommended to use mineral wool as a thermal insulation material and aluminum foil for hydro- and vapor barrier. In this case, the foil is laid on both sides of the mineral wool.

In addition, it is recommended to insulate the facade of the bathhouse. Mineral wool is also suitable for this, especially if the walls will be finished with plastic panels. If the finishing will be done with decorative plaster, then it is recommended to use foam plastic or other slab-type materials for thermal insulation. It is also possible to use mineral wool in slabs.

It is recommended to use sanded boards and tiles as a floor covering for a bathhouse; moreover, the tiles should not be smooth to prevent injuries from slipping on them. Wooden boards are laid on pre-assembled logs, and tiles are laid on a reinforced concrete screed. Moreover, after laying the tiles, it is necessary to use a moisture-resistant grout for the joints, otherwise the mortar in the joints will quickly begin to crumble, and then the tiles will begin to lag behind the base.

In order to retain hot air in the steam room so that it does not leak under the doors into the dressing room, you need to raise the floor level of the steam room to a height of 10 cm to 20 cm compared to the floor level in the dressing room.

Deciduous wood is recommended as wall decoration for the steam room - it is resistant to rotting in a humid atmosphere. You can also use various exotic wood species that are resistant to high temperatures and humidity. Many exotics emit aromas when heated, which is considered beneficial for the human body. Exotic wood can also be used for flooring - there are interesting durable species that can easily withstand both conditions of high humidity and high temperature. Hardwood and exotic wood can also be used to arrange shelves in the steam room.